SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: soprano on July 11, 2016, 05:09:14 PM
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so I'm always reading gate valve over ball valve. Can somebody explain to me why gate vs ball
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GT your wanted to the bat cave
Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats
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The poor horse was dead a long time ago! Lol
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How many reasons do you want?
Cheaper
A ton more adjustability.
The flow characteristics are reverse.
You can lock them down.
Rebuildable.
Are full port when wide open.
You can get them anywhere.
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How many reasons do you want?
Cheaper
A ton more adjustability.
The flow characteristics are reverse.
You can lock them down.
Rebuildable.
Are full port when wide open.
You can get them anywhere.
Hey Glenn, I bought my Shockwave from Shockwave, and it came with a ball valve. Since it already had it, should I just leave it or should I take the time and change it to a ball valve?
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Hey Glenn, I bought my Shockwave from Shockwave, and it came with a ball valve. Since it already had it, should I just leave it or should I take the time and change it to a ball valve?
What exhaust and does it work well?
I'm a huge fan of not fixing unbroken stuff...lol
GT
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What exhaust and does it work well?
I'm a huge fan of not fixing unbroken stuff...lol
GT
Manifolds with risers and hoses. It seems to work fine, but it does run very cool, cooler than I would like. The owner of Shockwave told me to leave it wide open, that's what he tells all of his jet drive customers and he says he has not had any complaints. It just runs very cool and its not as easy to adjust, if I close it about 25% it runs really warm at idle, but really good while cruising (around 160). So with that being said, ive just left it wide open.
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Manifolds with risers and hoses. It seems to work fine, but it does run very cool, cooler than I would like. The owner of Shockwave told me to leave it wide open, that's what he tells all of his jet drive customers and he says he has not had any complaints. It just runs very cool and its not as easy to adjust, if I close it about 25% it runs really warm at idle, but really good while cruising (around 160). So with that being said, ive just left it wide open.
This is just me talking, grain of salt if you will.
Replace the ball valve with a gate valve and adjust it so it idles at about 150° or so. It will cool off a little at anything above an idle, but might be better.
JMHO
Does it have a thermostat kit? Hope not.
GT
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So where is a good place to buy a gate valve? I'm going to be running steel braided lines on my setup. Should I buy a certain type of valve?
Sent from somewhere in Cali
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So where is a good place to buy a gate valve? I'm going to be running steel braided lines on my setup. Should I buy a certain type of valve?
Sent from somewhere in Cali
got mine at Lowes. Been running it for year and a half
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So where is a good place to buy a gate valve? I'm going to be running steel braided lines on my setup. Should I buy a certain type of valve?
Sent from somewhere in Cali
I really like the Red and White brand, but Nibco makes a great valve also.
Virtually any reputable supply house has what you need.
Get a 3/4" one, not 1/2".
GT
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This is just me talking, grain of salt if you will.
Replace the ball valve with a gate valve and adjust it so it idles at about 150° or so. It will cool off a little at anything above an idle, but might be better.
JMHO
Does it have a thermostat kit? Hope not.
GT
No, no thermostat kit. Ok cool. Thanks for the advice
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got mine at Lowes. Been running it for year and a half
Awesome
Sent from somewhere in Cali
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I really like the Red and White brand, but Nibco makes a great valve also.
Virtually any reputable supply house has what you need.
Get a 3/4" one, not 1/2".
GT
Ok cool
Sent from somewhere in Cali
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Roles way boats in upland says I'm ok with my ball valve and wide open. I'm running Mercruiser aluminum exhaust manifolds. I don't claim that I'm right. Just saying. Mine runs cool.
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Roles way boats in upland says I'm ok with my ball valve and wide open. I'm running Mercruiser aluminum exhaust manifolds. I don't claim that I'm right. Just saying. Mine runs cool.
Mine runs cool too, just too cool in my opinion. So ill probably switch it out for a gate, or play with the ball valve a little more to see if I can get it to run where I want. its just seems harder to fine tune the ball valve just right.
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How cool we talking?
You don't want it to run over about 150°F at any time.
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120.
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T in +
T out =
120
perfect.
Dan'l
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How cool we talking?
You don't want it to run over about 150°F at any time.
With the ball valve wide open, when I let it idle AFTER a good ten minute run, it will sometimes go up to 125 or so, but when im cruising, it is always down around 100.......... my gauge doesn't read lower than 100 so it could be even lower. It makes me a little uncomfortable but was afraid to mess with it, like you said, don't like to fix things that aren't broken. Im the second owner and its always been fine........ just goes against what ive always liked to run my temp at.
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With the ball valve wide open, when I let it idle AFTER a good ten minute run, it will sometimes go up to 125 or so, but when im cruising, it is always down around 100.......... my gauge doesn't read lower than 100 so it could be even lower. It makes me a little uncomfortable but was afraid to mess with it, like you said, don't like to fix things that aren't broken. Im the second owner and its always been fine........ just goes against what ive always liked to run my temp at.
Me personally, I would swap the ball for a gate and get it to idle about 150°F.
This is of course if the water coming from the pump goes through the exhaust logs first, then the engine.
GT
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Me personally, I would swap the ball for a gate and get it to idle about 150°F.
This is of course if the water coming from the pump goes through the exhaust logs first, then the engine.
GT
GT
So what would you like to see as a temp, when running headers. Based on this I am guessing it is different?
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GT
So what would you like to see as a temp, when running headers. Based on this I am guessing it is different?
I have always considered the temperature differential more than a temp.
If the river/lake water is say 70°F, you will probably want to be seeing a wot temp of about 120°F. This wis equate to about a 50°F split between incoming and leaving water. Any more and I feel you're asking for trouble.
Popular belief is under 60°F and I tend to agree.
GT
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T in +
T out =
120
perfect.
Dan'l
I have always considered the temperature differential more than a temp.
If the river/lake water is say 70°F, you will probably want to be seeing a wot temp of about 120°F. This wis equate to about a 50°F split between incoming and leaving water. Any more and I feel you're asking for trouble.
Popular belief is under 60°F and I tend to agree.
GT
:thumbup: :thumbup:
Dan'l
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I have always considered the temperature differential more than a temp.
If the river/lake water is say 70°F, you will probably want to be seeing a wot temp of about 120°F. This wis equate to about a 50°F split between incoming and leaving water. Any more and I feel you're asking for trouble.
Popular belief is under 60°F and I tend to agree.
GT
Thanks GT
Sounds like I will be needing to add a gate valve to my system. I never get over 100. Water is between 70-75, so I should be idling at about 125.
This will be helpful.
Thanks
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Thanks GT
Sounds like I will be needing to add a gate valve to my system. I never get over 100. Water is between 70-75, so I should be idling at about 125.
This will be helpful.
Thanks
Hells ya! Gate valve that thing!
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Thanks GT
Sounds like I will be needing to add a gate valve to my system. I never get over 100. Water is between 70-75, so I should be idling at about 125.
This will be helpful.
Thanks
You will probably have to adjust it to idle about 150°F. It will typically drop to around 120°F or so when on the loud pedal.
Under 100°F is silly scary.
This causes a lot of potential problems, including cracked valve seats, piston skirt galling, sweaty oil (valve cover snot), fat fuel ratio and poor performance.
About 120°F is really about as cold as you should go, unless of course the water is 40°F, but that's crazy talk. Lol
FWIW.
GT
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You will probably have to adjust it to idle about 150°F. It will typically drop to around 120°F or so when on the loud pedal.
Under 100°F is silly scary.
This causes a lot of potential problems, including cracked valve seats, piston skirt galling, sweaty oil (valve cover snot), fat fuel ratio and poor performance.
About 120°F is really about as cold as you should go, unless of course the water is 40°F, but that's crazy talk. Lol
FWIW.
GT
Sounds good, already ordered a stainless steel one from one of my vendors, will be here this afternoon.
Ya none of that sounds like any fun and if the water is 40 I will be in the garage upgrading my boat!! ;D
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Sounds good, already ordered a stainless steel one from one of my vendors, will be here this afternoon.
Ya none of that sounds like any fun and if the water is 40 I will be in the garage upgrading my boat!! ;D
Black Canyon- Below Hoover Dam ~52*F water temp.
In July.
Air temp 110*F+
I've seen Lake Mohave get to 88*F in late August. (Down river 20+ miles)
Dan'l
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This is a topic I know well.
I will make it as simple as possible.
"A brass gate valve is a good choice for throttling fluids. The brass is very resistant to corrosion. The gate valve allows for fine adjustment of flow. less acceptable to vibration. Good choice for throttling fluids.
"A ball valve is not made for throttling fluids. A ball valve is only meant to be in the open or closed position" with only a 90° turn on the handle you could lose flow very quickly due to a bump vibration or someone accidentally just being too close and bumping it but not realizing. Most of all the ball valve is not intended for throttling fluids. Ball valves are intended to be open or closed.
Be sure not to get a regular outside tap valve. Although you may think they look fairly similar they're not similar in design. Under conditions of high flow the rubber gasket could fold over and close off your flow.