Post by: woskie70 on May 09, 2017, 09:04:59 PM
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Post by: brian777 on May 10, 2017, 12:14:38 AM
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Post by: Steveo909 on May 10, 2017, 11:50:59 AM
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Post by: jim brock on May 10, 2017, 12:45:09 PM
Post by: AZ Tom on May 10, 2017, 05:55:02 PM
I am in the process of rebuilding my pump and had a question. What do I use to take this bolt or screw off?A big flat head driver on an pneumatic impact
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Post by: woskie70 on May 11, 2017, 09:08:30 PM
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Post by: woskie70 on May 11, 2017, 09:11:34 PM
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Post by: Steveo909 on May 12, 2017, 07:34:40 AM
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Post by: 78hallett on May 12, 2017, 09:52:57 AM
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Post by: woskie70 on May 12, 2017, 09:56:28 AM
How does this type of damage to the impeller happen. I was always told that it doesn't actually touch the wear ring.I'm pretty sure it got something stuck inside and that's what caused the damage. After so many years who knows. The crazy part is the boat still ran over 60 mph like this I don't know how but it did.
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Post by: woskie70 on May 12, 2017, 09:58:27 AM
Looks like the wear ring is still there. Take a torch to melt the insulator and remove the old wear ring and check for damage. Look at the vanes and the shaft also.The shaft is toast. But I will remove the wear ring next time I get back to work on it. The vanes are not to bad
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Post by: Flusher on May 14, 2017, 01:58:29 AM
How does this type of damage to the impeller happen. I was always told that it doesn't actually touch the wear ring.This was caused by a thrust bearing failure. Bowl pressure pushes forward on the impeller and shaft. When the bearing failed, the impeller ate into the suction housing.
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Post by: woskie70 on May 14, 2017, 08:46:31 AM
This was caused by a thrust bearing failure. Bowl pressure pushes forward on the impeller and shaft. When the bearing failed, the impeller ate into the suction housing.So do you think I can still use this housing or should I start looking for a new one?
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Post by: Coldduck1 on May 14, 2017, 09:17:02 AM
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Post by: Flusher on May 14, 2017, 06:03:01 PM
So do you think I can still use this housing or should I start looking for a new one?All housings get really thin between the hand hole cover bore and the wear ring bore. If it hasn't worn all the way through, you could get a little more life out of it.
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Just understand that even undamaged Berkeley housings are prone to cracking in this area. Also, the efficiency will be down because internal leakage past the wear ring will increase.
To specifically answer your question, I would have to see it in person before I would agree to use that suction housing. Then, your application needs to be considered. If it is destined for a cruiser AND it is not too far gone, you could potentially get a lot of life out of it. In a performance application, it is not a matter of IF, but WHEN it will crack.
HOWEVER, if it does crack, the wear ring will spin, damaging the impeller. It could also flood the boat as water will leak behind the hand hole cover.
I would also check the thrust bearing bore for damage seeing how the bearing disintegrated.
If it were me, just replace the damaged or worn parts.
Post by: woskie70 on June 01, 2017, 12:54:17 PM
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Post by: Flusher on June 01, 2017, 01:40:09 PM
So the screws broke off in here does anyone know how I could get the stubs out or do I need to replace it?That's fairly common. We drill those out more often than I would like. Usually, while the intake is being cut for a shoe and ride plate, I cut them out and through tap for 5/16-18. Every once in a while I need to install a threaded insert. When someone tries to drill them out with a hand drill, they always need at least one threaded insert. The bolts are much harder than the aluminum intake, causing drill bits to walk.
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You are in luck, maybe you can grab them with vise grips after spraying with penetrating oil. A little heat will go a long way too.
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Post by: Steveo909 on June 01, 2017, 01:53:18 PM
So the screws broke off in here does anyone know how I could get the stubs out or do I need to replace it?This happened to me. I bought a screw extractor (ez out) set from the hardware store and got them removed. If you have never used one it takes a little practice. You have to first flatten the broken screw with a dremel or grinder, drill a hole on the middle of the broken screw, then lightly tap the extractor with a hammer while turning counter clockwise. Follow up with a tap to clean threads.
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Post by: woskie70 on June 13, 2017, 05:20:17 PM
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Post by: bahner80 on June 13, 2017, 05:24:49 PM
Post by: mash on it on June 13, 2017, 05:58:40 PM
So I'm looking at replacing his water line. Does anyone know the size of the line going into the pump? Mine is frozen solid and I can't seem to get the valve part off. Also where do you find replacement parts?
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Looks like 3/8" brass nipple to a 3/8" to 1/2" bushing, to 1/2" gate valve, then a short 1/2" nipple then a 1/2" to 3/4" bushing. I think.
Take the handle (and gate assembly) out of the valve body before you take out the brass nipple.
Do this upon re-assembly. (remove gate assembly)
Hope that helps.
Dan'l
Post by: woskie70 on June 19, 2017, 09:43:28 AM
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Post by: sevans01 on June 19, 2017, 10:11:15 AM
At the finishing stages of the pump replacement and was wondering what kind of silicone to use for the gap between the bowl and the transom
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I think I used 3M 100% silicone when I put my pump together. Whatever brand you choose it needs to be 100% silicone
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Post by: woskie70 on August 30, 2017, 11:30:12 PM
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Post by: bobjthomson on August 31, 2017, 12:01:30 AM
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Post by: connorstexas on August 31, 2017, 10:41:47 PM
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Post by: Flusher on September 01, 2017, 09:59:21 AM
can a jc pump pump be opened up a little but on the nozzle side like a dominator can for some extra flow?What is happening inside the old style Dominator bowls, when opening the exit side, is the volume is opened ro form a pressure chamber.
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If you look at a section of a pump, you can see that a venturi shape is designed into all of the components. The intake opening reduces in cross-sectional area through the impeller and the transition into the bowl. Then gradually expands at the exit side of the bowl/droop, allowing the water to slow and build pressure. Pressure is the result of restriction to flow. This restriction is ultimately the nozzle and it is this point where the pressure is converted into thrust. The C bowl doesn't lend itself to this modifications without extensive cutting, welding, and fabricating.
The next problem that you will encounter is the nozzle o-ring in the steering socket. If the opening is made too big, the o-ring will be uncovered when turning.
The ideal is to have a balance of all of the components in the system. Unfortunately there is no five minute modification that will net a performance gain.
It is definitely worth keeping your bowl and impeller tuned up.