SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Projects => Topic started by: eliminatethis on November 11, 2010, 12:31:54 PM
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I am new here. live in florida but always have had cal. boats. I have just bought a 1978 sleekcraft SST jet with a big block chevy. Not the fastest hull I have have buy a long shot but have always had a itch to own one of them. I am changing out the floors with Nida-core. the side mounts on the three point mout were bolted right through the tunnels I can not go back with that has anybody restoed one of these and what did you do? pics would be great.
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Welcome to SCJB ;D
I think we've had a few people checking in from Florida lately :thumbup:
Pics would be great. Let us see what you're working on. Several people around hear have Sleekcraft boats and would like to see what your doing.
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welcome like some pics of your ride
rusty
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set the jig engine in to take ref. points for re rig after new floor.
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the day I picked it up
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morning back at my shop after a 17 hour drive
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tearing her down
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what a mess. But I do love this old hull.
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what mess did I get into ? still love the hull but had to take the old daytona out to remember how they end up after there done.
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almost cleaned up
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You need to STOP and just send that hull out here. I'll send you a proper V-hull to work on back there.
Tunnel hulls do NOT work east of the Mississippi! Something about the rotational gravitation forces of the earth....etc...etc...... :screwy:
Ray
BTW, Good looking work! :thumbup: Bring another Sleek to life!
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I had heard that about tunnel hulls :) so I bought a Sanger blown gas hydro with spray. Then I passed my first gator with the tail blown and thought about hitting a gator and taking off my rudder sold the hydro but put the engine in a 234 edge been ruined for life on tunnel hulls. anybody want to buy a old plesant (spelling may be wrong) hull
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got a 8082 carb and a single quad tunnel ram
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14 quart Dooley pan vented and easily repaired--FREE what a bargain all repairs are done and waiting for powder coat
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You'll like that pan! My Pickle has the same one. Enough clearance for any mount system you can imagine, and still require a co-signer when it's time to change the oil, depending on what oil you're using.
Put a right angle AN fitting and short piece (12-18") of AN hose and a plug in it on the rearmost drain bung before you install the engine though. Next to impossible to do once it's installed, but makes oil changes a snap. Lift it up so its higher than the oil level in the pan, remove the plug, add a longer piece of hose to it out the bilge plug hole and into a 5 gallon bucket, drink beer........... ;)
Noone thought to do this when Pickle was built, so its comng at least part way out to do it this winter.
Ray
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the repaired 14 QT (FREE) Dooley pan on the 540cid gen 6 block
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puke tank mounted for pre assembly
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plastic Jig engine with 14 Quart oil pan mounted to check clearance in bilge
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Just another sat. and no progrese on the old girl. Working on a customers boat today
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Looking good bud! :thumbup:
You planning on running a cam driven fuel or water pump? I'd plan on 86'ing that timing cover otherwise. Gonna be an unneccesary pain to control cam walk I would think. But hell I'm into the look as well as anyone if it's worth the effort! ;)
Ray
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IRREBEL : My cam has a cam plate so cam walk will not be a issue, as to why the cover I plan on using a Race Pump (brand) fuel pump and I will be running it off that cam mount on a custom mount. At the moment that is my intent I use there pumps on all my engines I own if I can.
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bottems up!
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sort of a odd thing next to the HIN#
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Waiting on the resin to cure so I can sand and do a last coat. Damn motor mount holes. I can't believe they were put there in the first place.
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made a trim out plate to clean up the transom around the pump. just have to counter sink the hole then off to polish. Yeh I know it's large but I wanted to cover the recess around the pump.
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Also replaced the bunks on the trailer and used glide on covers inplace of carpet.
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1st piece of 1/8 plywood in after first installing epoxy resin and Episize Biaxiel Fabric to the back side. after 24 hours I filled the hollow areas with HI BOND closed cell pour foam, BOY it that stuff messy!
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second layer of epoxy resin and Episize Biaxiel Fabric done
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last layer of 1/8th inch ply W/hard wood vanier in and coated with one thincoat of west systems 207 speciel hardener and 105 resin. just to keep it looking like new till I can do the last layer of fiberglass bi-axial fabric and gas tank mounts.
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This sure is coming out nice. ;D
So you used 2 layers of 1/8" ply on the floor ? My junk project had 1/4" that I have to replace, and 2 layers of 1/8" sure sounds like a better idea. That way I could stagger the joints like you did and it should end up stronger. I haven't seen it done like that before, nice idea ! ;D
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I like the wood look a lot. Is it getting covered?
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I may not cover it, the wood does look great.
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looks like a great job to me!
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Working on the SST is hard this weekend(Leesburg Bike Fest)
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both tanks in and both fuel pumps mounted & plumbed
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first set went almost perfect only two oil line fittings are to close to the tunnel so back to the Earls book for new fittings.
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Exposed mounting plates bolted down and epoxied with West Systems G-Flex
the unexposed bases are in the floor baried under 5 layers of Episize Biaxiel Fabric and three1/8th inch layers of ply. all with west systems epoxy.
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very nice!
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Stuffer mounting plate installed into Dominator bowl. Six stainless set screws & .004 press.
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stuffer installed into dominator bowl
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Hi Tech perf. prime a jet installed
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Found the smoking gun! The owner of this SST before me blew his fresh engine the first day out. The owner before him Blew three engines. Both sold her out of anger. Well I found the reason they all blew. The SST had the original through the tunnel mounts and the original bell housing but the drive shaft was changed from the origanal the bolted direct to the crankshaft to the PTO adapter and drive shaft type. neither owners moved the mounts forward just jammed it together and with that preload and the load of the pump moving forward they kept eating rear mains. I glade I caught it. Here is a pic of the new bell housing and a pic of the offset to the mounts I had to make up
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Stainless headers in , had to use 3/4" manifold spacers to clear valve covers. 4" exaust holes cut now I gotta make it work.
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Got the 3/4 inch exhaust spacers in from CP perf. I had to mill clearances for the head studs and MSD spark plug boots.They are done and look good!
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Stainless Marine - custom elbows, ;D 2 tight 90deg. and 2 tight 97deg. one leg tiped in 7 deg. more than the other leg.