SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Projects => Topic started by: wanabe on May 26, 2007, 08:15:47 AM
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... or maybe I should wait 'til it's running and in the water.
I've been a little busy since Tuesday so I haven't been online long enough to do anything; I picked up a boat on Wednesday, packed for Memorial trip on Thursday after work, drove 11 hours to New Mexico on Friday, where I sit right now.
It may not be pretty and doesn't run (yet), but we're on our way (one step at a time).
1974 18' Kona, Berkeley, 455 olds (hopefully with a good block; I'll find out soon enough).
(hopefully these pics come on the message)
(https://forum.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.socaljetboats.com%2Fcpg%2Falbums%2Fuserpics%2F10461%2FKona1.jpg&hash=7b6ef5a73636417d37978056a52d7c7e8292b111)
(https://forum.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.socaljetboats.com%2Fcpg%2Falbums%2Fuserpics%2F10461%2FKona2.jpg&hash=808357157de4a95a6eca446357bf3200044007e4)
(https://forum.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.socaljetboats.com%2Fcpg%2Falbums%2Fuserpics%2F10461%2FKona3.jpg&hash=b0e56dfa4737cd97cba96117a2940cc8e0119d6d)
(https://forum.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.socaljetboats.com%2Fcpg%2Falbums%2Fuserpics%2F10461%2FKona4.jpg&hash=42e473225ea30b2d67435c1606f38dbb49ee91a5)
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I see alot of potential and alot of sanding in your future. What did you pay?
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Wanabe,
hit me up when youre back in town. I want to swing by and check it out.
Congrats on finding a boat....a great deal at that.
-Brad
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Nice looking hull. A fresh gel or paint coat and you will be looking good and throwing roosters.
Congratz
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You get that thing in the water in any condition and I'll supply your first round of boat sodas. Great score and good luck with the project and enjoy it .
-beerjet-
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Boat sodas ... that there's funny.
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alot of sanding in your future.
That's for sure.
fresh gel or paint coat
After I get the motor running I think I'll just sand it out and throw on a coat of paint for now; I'll worry about the exterior looks down the road.
throwing roosters
I'll need to add on a diverter first
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Is Old Rigger for hire?
I'll need to get some electrical issues worked out before I get to the engine on this boat; it's poorly wired, if not all screwed up.
I came across 2 wiring diagrams; the first thing that gets me is both show 3 connectors from the ignition (ignition, start, battery); but my ignition has 4 (those mentioned + accessory); to start, I thought I'd throw a quick run-down here in case anyone has some quick suggestions:
- In acc position, bat & acc terminals are hot;
- In on position, nothing is hot but the fuel pump runs (I think it's the fuel pump);
- When put in acc, the voltage indicator drops down below line, so must not be registering right;
- Also, the fuel gauge backlight is ALWAYS on (even when off; other gauges probably also have backlight but they don?t light).
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Hey! I just moved from "Newbie" to "Jr. Member"; I'm moving on up. 8)
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Hey! I just moved from "Newbie" to "Jr. Member"; I'm moving on up. 8)
Keep on truckin bro .
-beerjet-
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... I came across 2 wiring diagrams; the first thing that gets me is both show 3 connectors from the ignition (ignition, start, battery); but my ignition has 4 (those mentioned + accessory); to start, I thought I'd throw a quick run-down here in case anyone has some quick suggestions:
- In acc position, bat & acc terminals are hot;
Perfect.
...- In on position, nothing is hot but the fuel pump runs (I think it's the fuel pump);
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The electric fuel pump should be running, the bat, acc, and the ig should be "hot" on the key switch.
...- When put in acc, the voltage indicator drops down below line, so must not be registering right;
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Not sure which line you're talking about or what gauge you have. If it's a volt gauge the needle should only move (in the acc position) if you've got a stereo system in it, otherwise it shouldn't move at all.
...- Also, the fuel gauge backlight is ALWAYS on (even when off; other gauges probably also have backlight but they don?t light).
Sounds like a mis-wired light, could also be wired correctly but have a bad ground in the dash area.
Need any Olds parts? Bekeley parts? I sold some Olds Bassett OT headers sold today to a lurker. Some of my Olds parts are already on eBay. Really nice quality used stuff.
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Thanks rod! I don't know what parts I'll need until I straighten out the wiring. I do know I'll need a rudder when I get to that point; the one on it is broken (Berkeley 12JC).
Does this sound like a ground problem? What would cause the acc/bat to work in "acc" but not work in "on" (although the pump runs in "on")?
I'm going to work from the switch forward and go from there.
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hey i have a rudder you can have it was broke once then i had it welded good as new its for a 12 jc
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Thanks rod! I don't know what parts I'll need until I straighten out the wiring. I do know I'll need a rudder when I get to that point; the one on it is broken (Berkeley 12JC).
Does this sound like a ground problem? What would cause the acc/bat to work in "acc" but not work in "on" (although the pump runs in "on")?
I'm going to work from the switch forward and go from there.
You're welcome. I'd disconnect all but the bat from the key switch (write down how it was connected before!) and grab a test light and see what's what at the switch. Could be a bad key switch. If it checks good add the acc wire and check each post again on the switch. If that looks good add the ig wires, and check it again, and so on. You may want to re-hook up each wire one at a time as you check the switch. Could be a ground problem also.
Pefect. Start at the ig switch and go from there.
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You're welcome. I'd disconnect all but the bat from the key switch (write down how it was connected before!) and grab a test light and see what's what at the switch. Could be a bad key switch. If it checks good add the acc wire and check each post again on the switch. If that looks good add the ig wires, and check it again, and so on. You may want to re-hook up each wire one at a time as you check the switch. Could be a ground problem also.
Pefect. Start at the ig switch and go from there.
The ignition switch is branch new; I just replaced it.
I was thinking more about that acc. Do boats usually have the acc position on the ignition (or is it just 'on' and crank)? I found 2 diagrams and both only show 3 posts on the ignition switch (ign, start, batt). The switch I pulled had 4 (+ acc), so I duplicated that with the new switch.
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Yes, boats normally have a ig switch with just off, on, and crank. Personally, I'd rather have a ig switch with a acc position. For sand bar/"beach" tunes.
So you put in a new ignition. Is that before or after the problems?
.. What would cause the acc/bat to work in "acc" but not work in "on" ...
Having the batttery wire on the acc postion and the acc wire on the battery position would cause that. It would also turn the fuel pump on whenever your key switch is in the on position but not turn your fuel pump on when its in the acc position. Your fuel pump would shut off whenever you try to crank the engine over. It wouldn't allow you to crank the engine over though. Hope this helps. The crank position terminal and the ig terminal on the key switch would be "dead" whenever the switch is in the crank position.
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So you put in a new ignition. Is that before or after the problems?
What are you trying to say ;) ?
The first problem was not having an ignition key, which is why I replaced the ignition; so, the problem already existed. I duplicated the wiring one wire at a time as not to mix them up; the ignition that was in it had 5 posts but only 4 wired (ground/GRD had no wire and there is no ground/GRD on the one I put in); also, the new one had posts marked IGN/BAT/ACC and one not marked (in the middle), which I presumed was START(er).
I'll check to make sure the wires are in the right position.
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I'll check to make sure the wires are in the right position.
My head was smoking after thinking about what would cause that problem. :D
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First full day to work, made a lot of progress on the Kona; a lot of the wiring was wrong so after trying to correct I decided to take Brad's suggestion and start from scratch (first thing was to dump the mystery relay).
I pulled the starter/solenoid so can't report on that but all else is better; the gauges function properly, ignition switch points are 'hot' at appropriate time (per Rod's info - thanks!), blower operates (although no on/off switch; don't know if it was run all the time but I don't think that would be right).
QUESTION - BALLAST RESISTOR
What is it and is it needed?
One diagram shows Ignition Switch 'IGN' to Solenoid 'R';
The other shows Ignition Switch 'IGN' leaving Terminal Block, going thru Ballast Resistor, connecting to wire from Solenoid 'R', then both terminating on Ignition Coil '+'.
Can I just run Ignition Switch 'IGN' directly to Ignition Coil '+' (or Solenoid 'R')?
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Wiring diagram:
http://www.socaljetboats.com/cpg/displayimage.php?album=lastup&cat=0&pos=4 (http://www.socaljetboats.com/cpg/displayimage.php?album=lastup&cat=0&pos=4)
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First full day to work, made a lot of progress on the Kona; a lot of the wiring was wrong so after trying to correct I decided to take Brad's suggestion and start from scratch (first thing was to dump the mystery relay).
I pulled the starter/solenoid so can't report on that but all else is better; the gauges function properly, ignition switch points are 'hot' at appropriate time (per Rod's info - thanks!), blower operates (although no on/off switch; don't know if it was run all the time but I don't think that would be right).
QUESTION - BALLAST RESISTOR
What is it and is it needed?
One diagram shows Ignition Switch 'IGN' to Solenoid 'R';
The other shows Ignition Switch 'IGN' leaving Terminal Block, going thru Ballast Resistor, connecting to wire from Solenoid 'R', then both terminating on Ignition Coil '+'.
Can I just run Ignition Switch 'IGN' directly to Ignition Coil '+' (or Solenoid 'R')?
Right on! Progress is gooood.
Oh God, you're listening to Brad? ??? ;D
The blower on my Rogers was on whenever the key was on. Helps prevent explosions. I am guessing it's supposed to be on all the time but I really don't know for sure. ???
You want the solenoid R wire to go to the key switches ignition terminal. Whether or not you need a ballast resistor entirily depends on what igntion coil you're using. If you've got an HEI on your Olds then you don't want to run a ballast resistor. Allmost all ignition coils require a ballast resistor. Ignition wire from the key goes to the starter R terminal and to one side of the ballast resistor, the other side of the ballast resistor goes to the coil's + terminal.
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Oh God, you're listening to Brad? ??? ;D
;D
The blower on my Rogers was on whenever the key was on. Helps prevent explosions. I am guessing it's supposed to be on all the time but I really don't know for sure. ???
Could be right; I'll leave it then; I was thinking you blow the fumes out before ignition and that while running it wasn't an issue.
You want the solenoid R wire to go to the key switches ignition terminal. Whether or not you need a ballast resistor entirily depends on what igntion coil you're using. If you've got an HEI on your Olds then you don't want to run a ballast resistor. Allmost all ignition coils require a ballast resistor. Ignition wire from the key goes to the starter R terminal and to one side of the ballast resistor, the other side of the ballast resistor goes to the coil's + terminal.
Thanks!
Going to bed now.
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hey wanabe if you give me your address i'll send you that rudder we talked about. thecraz
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hey wanabe if you give me your address i'll send you that rudder we talked about. thecraz
Thanks! Sent you a PM.
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hey wanabe if you give me your address i'll send you that rudder we talked about. thecraz
I simply make mention of needing a Berk12JC rudder in passing; thecraz offers a repaired rudder, follows up, ships right away, and I already have it.
THANKS craz and thanks Brad for this website.
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I left positive Karma for thecraz. Very cool of ya.
Wanabe, are you gunna be around at about 5ish? I gotta stop by a paint shop to look at some metalflake options in laguna niguel on my way home from work, then I can swing by then to check out the new float!
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I sent you PM.
I left positive Karma for thecraz. Very cool of ya.
I already left karma for thecraz; that was cool of him.
Wanabe, are you gunna be around at about 5ish? I gotta stop by a paint shop to look at some metalflake options in laguna niguel on my way home from work, then I can swing by then to check out the new float!
Sorry I didn't get this earlier; I was out there (or somewhere close by); catch you next time.
Need a starter before I can go any further.
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You want the solenoid R wire to go to the key switches ignition terminal.
Whether or not you need a ballast resistor entirily depends on what igntion coil you're using. If you've got an HEI on your Olds then you don't want to run a ballast resistor. Allmost all ignition coils require a ballast resistor. Ignition wire from the key goes to the starter R terminal and to one side of the ballast resistor, the other side of the ballast resistor goes to the coil's + terminal.
NO, NO, NO, NO NO! The wire from the "R" terminal of the solenoid does NOT go to the ignition feed. It goes to the positive terminal of the coil, or the coil side of the ballast resistor. The circuit is called the "ballast bypass". It is only active when the starter is cranking. If you connect it to the IGN feed, you negate its designed function.
Ballast resistors are used almost exclusively with point-type ignition systems. The only electronic ignition that I have seen use a ballast resistor is the Mallory Unilite.
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The wire from the "R" terminal of the solenoid ... goes to the positive terminal of the coil
Thanks; that how I have it.
Does anything then run from Coil + to the Terminal Board? The diagram I have shows Solenoid R to Ballast Resistor that also gets feed from Terminal Board 4 (Ignition) then to Coil + (maybe it assumes points ignition); so, then with no Ballast Resistor, shouldn't there still be a connection from Coil + to the Terminal Board Ignition? (Terminal Board 4 also has connection from Alternator).
Also, the wire from Solenoid to Coil is very small wire (same as those for temp/oil pressure); is that OK or should it be larger wire (lower gauge)?
Diagram:
http://www.socaljetboats.com/cpg/displayimage.php?album=71&pos=4 (http://www.socaljetboats.com/cpg/displayimage.php?album=71&pos=4)
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That diagram is correct ONLY for points ignition. If you have electronic ignition, you would delete the ballast resistor and the circuit from "R" on starter to coil. You would then wire in the electronic per the system manufacturer's instructions.
What do you have, or plan to have, for an ignition system?
Yes the small gauge wire should be OK. Remember, that circuit is only supplying power to the ignition for a few seconds(during cranking only). If it bothers you, step it up to the same size as the wires going to ballast from terminal block . Again, this circuit is needed ONLY for a points ignition system.
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What do you have, or plan to have, for an ignition system?
It's a Wells.
You would then wire in the electronic per the system manufacturer's instructions.
Don't have; will look for online (unless you can guide me).
That diagram is correct ONLY for points ignition. If you have electronic ignition, you would delete the ballast resistor and the circuit from "R" on starter to coil.
So nothing from Solenoid R to Coil?
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I am more than familiar with the Wells name as they manufacture replace ignition parts, but not sure they make any complete replacement ignition systems. Can you put up pics of the distibutor(inside and out)?
I can try to help you but, again, need to figure out what you have.
Correct. Nothing from "R" to coil IF you are running electronic ignition. No reason for the "ballast bypass" circuit when you dont have a ballast resistor. For the record, when GM went to electronic ignition they deleted the "R" terminal from the starter solenoid. Aftermarket replacements still have the "R" terminal to be able to service all applications with fewer part numbers. Saves them $$$.
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NO, NO, NO, NO NO! The wire from the "R" terminal of the solenoid does NOT go to the ignition feed. It goes to the positive terminal of the coil, or the coil side of the ballast resistor. The circuit is called the "ballast bypass". It is only active when the starter is cranking. If you connect it to the IGN feed, you negate its designed function.
Ballast resistors are used almost exclusively with point-type ignition systems. The only electronic ignition that I have seen use a ballast resistor is the Mallory Unilite.
I think I speak for a number of people when I say "THANK YOU" for your help and from keeping the less informed from making mistakes!! It's people like you that will make this a great site. ( and stop kicking my ass in video poker)
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Can you put up pics of the distibutor(inside and out)?
YES; it'll be a little while because I'm off to a meeting now.
Thanks for your help.
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YES; it'll be a little while because I'm off to a meeting now.
Thanks for your help.
Cool. I'll check back later.
I think I speak for a number of people when I say "THANK YOU" for your help and from keeping the less informed from making mistakes!! It's people like you that will make this a great site. ( and stop kicking my ass in video poker)
Happy to help. When I was young and just getting into cars, I had my dad and a neighbor to turn to for help. Now that I'm ..uhh...older :)....I figure it's my turn to pass along some of what I've learned.
I hit my 1 billion target at poker, so I'll probably give it a rest for a while. Need to let my left mouse button finger recover. :D
Was that you that I met at the drags at Ming last month with Brad? I was kind of in a hurry since I was running late and had "tow driver" duty for a friend.
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Was that you that I met at the drags at Ming last month with Brad? I was kind of in a hurry since I was running late and had "tow driver" duty for a friend.
Yeah that was me.
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Here are the pics; hope they're large enough:
(https://forum.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.socaljetboats.com%2Fcpg%2Falbums%2Fuserpics%2F10461%2FDistr-IgnCoil01.JPG&hash=926cd70999bf0d5beb509e07060ac99218ea9c86)
(https://forum.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.socaljetboats.com%2Fcpg%2Falbums%2Fuserpics%2F10461%2FDistr-IgnCoil02.JPG&hash=7089c78b1d8a4308b438efae1a50fac696b59fd6)
(https://forum.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.socaljetboats.com%2Fcpg%2Falbums%2Fuserpics%2F10461%2FDistr-IgnCoil03.JPG&hash=5d9b998a989328d1606a1a70ad588c50d2fd5ba6)
(https://forum.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.socaljetboats.com%2Fcpg%2Falbums%2Fuserpics%2F10461%2FDistr-IgnCoil04.JPG&hash=ba03a13de0cc28032bcc900f1805b5d2270982d1)
(https://forum.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.socaljetboats.com%2Fcpg%2Falbums%2Fuserpics%2F10461%2FDistr-IgnCoil05.JPG&hash=0995a86893f993e98ea90083de5b3fbe6d95baba)
(https://forum.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.socaljetboats.com%2Fcpg%2Falbums%2Fuserpics%2F10461%2FDistr-IgnCoil06.JPG&hash=e7c064380efe70f46b22294296c45c23c40dc12d)
(https://forum.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.socaljetboats.com%2Fcpg%2Falbums%2Fuserpics%2F10461%2FDistr-IgnCoil07.JPG&hash=8cdf0767021e3df4d955763f58d4077731a3af92)
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That is a basic GM HEI ignition. The hook up is quite simple. One wire from the terminal block to the B+ terminal on distributor and one from the tach terminal on terminal block to tach terminal of distributor.
No ballast resistor and no wire from starter "R" terminal to coil. As an option, you can control the B+ feed with a relay to avoid any potential problem with voltage drop in the circuit.
Having said that, that distributor lookas a little worse for wear with spliced wires and rusty advance mechanism. Someone also seems to have removed tha vacuum advance unit, and while it is not needed, there has to be a strap installed to hold the advance plate from moving.
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Thanks to your help I'll have all this done, but the coil/distributor is now the least of my concern; tried to turn the engine by hand yesterday and it wouldn't budge; liquid splashed from the plug holes; first thought was water but is gas (mostly gas; may have water mixed with it); will be taking it apart this weekend.
Regardless, may as well finish up with this issue:
vacuum advance unit, and while it is not needed, there has to be a strap installed to hold the advance plate from moving
Where would that go? What type of strap?
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OK; now for the engine; got the manifold and heads off; looks like it's been sitting for a while with water in it; rust, rust (what a shame).
These pics after some cleaning up (I should have taken some before I cleaned anything); the liquid you see in there is from WD40 I sprayed it up with (before I cleaned a little, a combo of water and fuel filled the cylinders.
(https://forum.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.socaljetboats.com%2Fcpg%2Falbums%2Fuserpics%2F10461%2FIMG_0002%7E0.JPG&hash=53cdd3cd69896fb5e5ce62de070465383f0163d4)
(https://forum.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.socaljetboats.com%2Fcpg%2Falbums%2Fuserpics%2F10461%2FIMG_0001%7E0.JPG&hash=cc0e0283abe163e2c50a50fcc3419154055e5eaa)
(https://forum.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.socaljetboats.com%2Fcpg%2Falbums%2Fuserpics%2F10461%2FIMG_0003%7E0.JPG&hash=cd89e60aa0ef60c6ccb8e9c181fdb73596342cb3)
(https://forum.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.socaljetboats.com%2Fcpg%2Falbums%2Fuserpics%2F10461%2FIMG_0004%7E0.JPG&hash=c362d4202ebdc5ae3efa63b90437765f78f08510)
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yummmm, rust :-\
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$600 for a excellant running long block, $500 for the short block, partial trades accepted - possibly including your short block and possibly your cylinder heads dpending on what versions they are.
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Rod: PM sent.
I cannot turn it at all! Used almost a full 11oz can of WD (first round at 10:30am). I'm at a stand-still.
I'm just glad I didn't put the starter on that Rod gave me before checking this out; since the engine is that stuck, it probably would have fried the starter bendix.
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You are going to have to remove the engine completely from the hull. An engine stand will be invaluable, it'll just be a pain in your assss if you don't have one. Then you're going to want to pull the main journals off (mark them telling you which journal it goes on and in which direction they were on), remove the connecting rod nuts off and the rod's caps (mark them telling you which journal it goes on and in which direction they were on), push each piston out through the top, lift out the crank, and take everything down to a machinist and have them checked for cracks, size, etc.................................... ......
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After soaking in WD most of yesterday and all night, I was able to move the crank this morning (I didn't hurry out there today because I didn't expect anything so I was quite surprised when it moved).
Gotta go!
BTW, I don't have full rotation; it just moved a little.
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Dude, that engine will never run. It has to come completly apart. Turning it may cause more damage. Depending on how long it sat full of water, ( rust pits in the cyinders) you may get away with just rings and bearings. That rust is just like sand now, it has to be completly removed.
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Dude, that engine will never run. It has to come completly apart. Turning it may cause more damage. Depending on how long it sat full of water, ( rust pits in the cyinders) you may get away with just rings and bearings. That rust is just like sand now, it has to be completly removed.
wanabe, I know your cash situation, I know you want to get on the water with your jet boat, I know, I know, I know, you are asking for sh!tloads of nothing but trouble and heartache if you do anything with that engine other than completely tearing it down and having everything professionally checked out and then completely rebuilding it. You will not be able to get that engine to turn over, flush it out, and get it to run for more than 30 minutes with the boat in the water. I've got a $100 be on that bet and I am broke as **** and don't have the cash to waiste on a stupid bet.
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wanabe, I know your cash situation, I know you want to get on the water with your jet boat, I know, I know, I know, you are asking for sh!tloads of nothing but trouble and heartache if you do anything with that engine other than completely tearing it down and having everything professionally checked out and then completely rebuilding it. You will not be able to get that engine to turn over, flush it out, and get it to run for more than 30 minutes with the boat in the water. I've got a $100 be on that bet and I am broke as **** and don't have the cash to waiste on a stupid bet.
i'm with rod on this one, sorry bro either rebuild it rite or get another engine. sorry :-\
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You can probably find a running or rebuildable olds for real cheap . Definatly needs to be gone through correctly.
-beerjet-
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First, I appreciate and utilize advice from y'all and respect the opinions of those who know much more than me; but I chose to ignore some comments here for various reasons.
That said ...
THE KONA IS RUNNING ! ;D ! ...
so I figure it's time to bring this thread back to life.
Tentatively, Flytime and I will be going to Lake Hodges this Sunday to water test; anyone who wants to join us is more than welcome (if you don't mind being seen with an ugly boat).
I finished putting the engine back together a couple weeks back and it actually started then; I shut her down and pulled the carb because the gas flow wasn't right; got carb rebuid kit last week and got that done; had to then work out some timing issues then VOILA.
Saturday I'll need to do some tweeking (not to mention putting a water pump in my Jeep so I can tow her and get to DMV tomorrow to register); although it starts easy and runs well, the ignition switch doesn't turn it off (alternator diode I think because I didn't put one in; not sure where to pick that up but will find out tomorrow), no tach read (I'm stumped on that one) and oil pressure didn't register today (although it did the first time we started it so may just be lose wire or bad sender).
Anyway, let us know if you want to join us. If it has to be cancelled for some reason, I'll post here Saturday night.
THANKS FOR ALL THE ADVICE !
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awesome job tim....this is the kinda stuff i love to hear. Glad you got it running. I want pics and stories on how sunday goes. ;D
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wanabe, here is some solid advice, with all the time and sweat to get it goin, dont forget the PLUG ;D and when it pulls off the trailer yell IT IS ALIVE and then hall ass away from dock, good luck
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Sweet, I hope you have a blast. Theres nothing like the feeling when you make your 1st run in a jet boat! I think I stood up and danced around like an idiot. But D@mn I felt great.
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Tentatively, Flytime and I will be going to Lake Hodges this Sunday to water test; anyone who wants to join us is more than welcome (if you don't mind being seen with an ugly boat).
i just may join you out there....we will see...
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... when it pulls off the trailer yell IT IS ALIVE and then hall ass away from dock, good luck
I think I'll keep the RPM's down for a while ; I wouldn't want it to blow up right there with everyone around ::)
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i just may join you out there....we will see...
You won't be able to miss my boat; just look for the ugliest one.
This is flytime's boat (slightly different than mine :o)
http://www.socaljetboats.com/index.php/topic,1122.msg12177.html#msg12177 (http://www.socaljetboats.com/index.php/topic,1122.msg12177.html#msg12177)
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My advice after seeing that motor is bring a towrope and/or a paddle.
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My advice after seeing that motor is bring a towrope and/or a paddle.
No paddle needed; that's one reason flytime is going with me; if needed, my tow won't be far away.
HOWEVER, let's be more positive than that ::) !
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good luck today guys!
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good luck today guys!
Sooooo ......... Wannabe . Is there anything you want to tell us . ;) 8)
-beerjet-
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NO TOW ROPE WAS NEEDED ! ;D !
Myself (with 7-year-old son), flytime, Brad and beerjet (and friends) were out for the first run after my quasi-rebuild on the Kona 455 Olds (a boat that was dead for at least 3 years from what I could gather). I had: tow rope (unused!), tools (2 adjustments only), my son prepared that we would be working on the motor as much or more than riding ... however, we did nothing but cruise ALL DAY. The boat ran from the get-go and kept running. I waited until the end of the day to really hit it from a stand still (have to know if it will pull up a skiier since that's what I got it for) ... and it TOOK OFF.
Don't know what more to say other than it was a GREAT DAY BOATING on the lake with friends. I guess I really do need to change my handle now since I'm officially "in the game" (disclaimer: since I don't have the cash, this wasn't an official rebuild; other than gaskets, I used all existing parts (with a lot of work cleaning, etc); that being said, it may blow one day but we'll run it until then).
Kudos to a lot of folks from SCJB; I don't want to start naming because I'm sure I'll forget someone but you know who you are - THANKS for the help!
Videos/pics to follow soon ...
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Awesome, congratz!! ;D
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it was a great day....pretty much had the lake to ourselves....heres some pics...
[attachimg=1]
Omar got ANOTHER flat on his trailer. wtf ???
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
[attachimg=4]
[attachimg=5]
[attachimg=6]
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[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
These guys were buzzin around the lake with us
[attachimg=3]
Who are you?!
[attachimg=4]
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Tim , it was very cool meeting you and Bob (flytime) . That kona sure does run good . Great work and I hope it works for a long time .
I am going to have to pull the covers on your day though . At the launch ramp when it wouldn't run and your stabbing the throttle like it goin out of style . What was really goin on . ;) At least you didnt forget you your plug .
-beerjet-
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DAMN ! He's good lookin ! Yummy!
(https://forum.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.socaljetboats.com%2Findex.php%3Faction%3Ddlattach%3Btopic%3D833.0%3Battach%3D3551%3Bimage&hash=cf7d1b8da14832d60901c0700e0c8ff8d04648c0)
-beerjet-
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Tim , it was very cool meeting you and Bob (flytime) . That kona sure does run good . Great work and I hope it works for a long time .
I am going to have to pull the covers on your day though . At the launch ramp when it would run and your stabbing the throttle like it goin out of style . What was really goin on . ;) At least you didnt forget you your plug .
-beerjet-
lets not forget the incident on the way to the lake either ;)
we're just givin ya a hard time, its all good...your determination has paid off. congrats on getting the bad boy running...now make it look as good as it runs!
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I am going to have to pull the covers on your day though . At the launch ramp when it wouldn't run and your stabbing the throttle like it goin out of style . What was really goin on . ;) -beerjet-
OK, OK; primed with pedal; didn't start right up; thought maybe flooded but was just the opposite; from the test runs at home yesterday I unhooked the throttle cable to run it up manually -- it was still unhooked (duh - :P )
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Damn you wernt kidding...that is an ugly boat! Hey at least its running! Great Job!
thats some funny sh!t about omars tires...whats the deal bro?
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lets not forget the incident on the way to the lake either ;)
OK, OK (II); look guys, I was talking about AFTER we got underway ...
had to put new water pump in Jeep yesterday so I could pull boat today (done this enough times); anyway, 20 miles from house, BAM, red-line (didn't think we'd be boating today); well, I neglected to replace one hose clamp (oops) so it blew off (new coolant everywhere); reattached hose, loaded with water and kept going.
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How about a big round of applause for Wanabe getting that boat that isnt suppose to run, running again. Here are a couple of my pics from the day.(http://[attachthumb=#])
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Dammit. How do you pics on this thing?
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thats some funny sh!t about omars tires...whats the deal bro?
The only thing I can come with is they put pieces of shit tires on my trailer .
All I know is that I'm fuking up someones monday tommorrow. >:( >:( >:(
Here's another kicker . I get the flat over to the gas station for some air and the fukin thing holds air all the way home , granted it was on the spare mount so now I really confused . ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ???
-beerjet-
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Hey Omar, can I drive your boat? (Sorry Garrett)LOL ;D.
Bob
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OK Lets try this picture game again.
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It worked!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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It worked!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Good job; I don't know how to do the thumbnail/click-to-enlarge attachment.
I'll put some up tomorrow (I'm tired); 2 videos will follow in just a moment.
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Video : an early run
[yt=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THGWmB8ilso[/yt]
Video : my son driving (with my foot on the pedal; he's not tall enough to reach)
[yt=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=INRgLznTBH4[/yt]
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Awsome pics bob ! Now lets get working on that rooster tail. ;D
-beerjet-
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Awsome pics bob ! Now lets get working on that rooster tail. ;D
-beerjet-
;D
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Picture of Wanbe and Omar's creamsicle.
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Video : an early run
[yt=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THGWmB8ilso[/yt]
Video : my son driving (with my foot on the pedal; he's not tall enough to reach)
[yt=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=INRgLznTBH4[/yt]
Thats one hell of a way to start some memories. 8)
-beerjet-
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I am dubbing wannabe's boat "PATCHES" :D
-beerjet-
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LMFAO ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Glad to see one brought back from near death ;)
Good job
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I am dubbing wannabe's boat "PATCHES" :D
-beerjet-
That's good; you nailed it.
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I don't know how I missed all of your updates and posts but congratulations! Don't it feel great when you bust your asss and everything works out on the water!
BTW, "Patches" is a great name.
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I don't know how I missed all of your updates and posts but congratulations! Don't it feel great when you bust your asss and everything works out on the water!
BTW, "Patches" is a great name.
Thanks Rod and thanks for the starter you sent early on in the process.
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Any more pics or video Tim? Keep em comin. Be proud of patches! Thanks again to our Grand Poobah for making the trip yesterday and hookin Tim up with a boat. SCJB rocks!
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Here are a few of my pics:
My boy (also have 2 girls):
[attachthumb=1]
Saturday making sure it stays running (with flytime):
[attachthumb=2]
No wake zone:
[attachthumb=3]
Cruisin':
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Flytime (left; with Brad), Beerjet (right):
[attachthumb=5]
Flytime dropping his shorts for some reason >:D (you asked for more pics):
[attachthumb=6]
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As a side note . I got the name "pacthes" from my brother . He had a trans am like bandits and it had a bunch of primer spots on it from him workin on it and he named it "patches" . With the 6.6 in it . It shit and git real good too just like your kona ! Jack over , back to your regularly scheduled programing .
-beerjet-
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Well at least brad is smiling ...... Wait a minute .....
-beerjet-
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Easy Beerjet. Non of that homo shit goin on here. ::)
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Easy Beerjet. Non of that **** shit goin on here. ::)
My bad ! I'll try to contain myself. :P
-beerjet-
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Well, I guess I just can't post the good stuff, so here's the bad (and I'm prepared for the "I told you so's"):
The Kona went down on Sunday; the issue wasn't visible and I haven't been able to pull the headers, etc, yet to see, but I'm presuming something went thru the pan; much oil in the bilge and it doesn't look like it came from the top side (which I did myself); my daughter was driving so I was watching her and the traffic so I don't know gage positions when it went down (I just reached over and turned the key off as quick as I could).
I knew I cut corners by not pulling the engine to begin with (as was suggested by several peeps), but I simply didn't have the equipment nor space ... but I'll need to find a way now.
I did get one full day of boating in first though.
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Oh yeah, anyone have a bottom end of a 455 they need hauled off? ;D
Good crank, pistons, etc; maybe 10 qt pan?
There's a good complete 455 on eBay (another thread) but I just can't afford it.
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Oh yeah, anyone have a bottom end of a 455 they need hauled off? ;D
Good crank, pistons, etc; maybe 10 qt pan?
There's a good complete 455 on eBay (another thread) but I just can't afford it.
Dam wanabe, that sucks dude.
Well you'r not the only one with a blown 455 if it makes you feel better ;D
Good luck on your rebuild. Im sure you will have plenty of help.
But it still sucks.
2sav
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With a 1/2 inch spacer on the front mount, a chevy will fit perfectly with out redoing the motor mounts in the stringers.
Do your self a favor!
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With a 1/2 inch spacer on the front mount, a chevy will fit perfectly with out redoing the motor mounts in the stringers.
Do your self a favor!
If I can't save this one with little $$, and I decide to put another engine in it, that sounds like the better plan.
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With a 1/2 inch spacer on the front mount, a chevy will fit perfectly with out redoing the motor mounts in the stringers.
Do your self a favor!
;)
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I have a 455 with a 10qt dooley pan, hi torque starter, no heads, and a broken crank... It ran (briefly) with the broken crank. Heard a light tapping turned it off and found the crank problem. Thats as far into as I've gotten so far, but I will sell it or parts of. Heads are about to be sold on E-Bay starting bid $1000 cause they are original F heads. If it doesn't sell in parts I will get a new crank and heads for it and sell it complete and running... just need the time to get everything done. I have all the mounting hardware, basset headers complete with water injectors and T-valve. I know someone one her inquired about the pan and headers I think, but I have been just too busy to do more than get off the floor and onto an engine stand.
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Wanabe, I have a perfect small block 350 Chevy, 4 bolt main, forged steel crank, other than the crank I have no parts for it. I made a lamp out of the camshaft, a table out of the block and the crank is sitting on my side yard. Someone just offered me 700 for the engine table. If you want a small block for your boat I will gladly contribute to your cause. Seeing your kid smile in that video made my day. If you'd rather stay away from the small block I'll keep my eye out for a big block. I have 3 small blocks in the back of my truck right now. and one in the middle of my living room...
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OK ...
Rod thru pan behind starter
[attachimg=1]
you can see the hole behind starter, below/right of dipstick; you may also notice that the starter isn't straight; the rod hit the starter and pushed it out; evidentally shorting out the solenoid and melting the battery cable insulation (I had fire exstinquisher in hand watching the insulation melt and drip off the cable; love the smell of melting plastic).
[attachimg=2]
It came out with such force that it busted the starter housing (HotRod will hate to see this)
[attachimg=3]
and the both bolt channels
[attachimg=4]
Didn't get a pic of this, but the piston, without rod, shot up and compressed the top after hitting the head (no damage to head).
So, so far the shopping list is:
- pan
- piston
- rod
- starter (again)
Oh yeah, battery cable ;D
The list will likely grow after I pull the engine.
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I have a 455 with a 10qt dooley pan, hi torque starter, no heads, and a broken crank... It ran (briefly) with the broken crank. Heard a light tapping turned it off and found the crank problem. Thats as far into as I've gotten so far, but I will sell it or parts of. Heads are about to be sold on E-Bay starting bid $1000 cause they are original F heads. If it doesn't sell in parts I will get a new crank and heads for it and sell it complete and running... just need the time to get everything done. I have all the mounting hardware, basset headers complete with water injectors and T-valve. I know someone one her inquired about the pan and headers I think, but I have been just too busy to do more than get off the floor and onto an engine stand.
Pls check PM
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Damn! I totaly missed this thread. Sorry about your luck, I'm not in tears about the starter.
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I have a 455 with a 10qt dooley I know someone one her inquired about the pan and headers I think, but I have been just too busy to do more than get off the floor and onto an engine stand.
Ya someone did ;D
2sav
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I'm trying for ya Wanabe. No one wants to give up their big blocks this week.... I have a bunch of small blocks though. 3 350's-4 bolt mains, 2 327's-4 bolt main large journals. All with forged steel cranks.
A 350 would do you well despite what all these guys say. I know you're not out to kill anyone out of the hole or top speed. If you're just looking to have a good ole time and be reliable I have some small blocks for you to choose from. And you can have one.
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Nothing wrong with a small block at all. Add an aluminum top end and the right cam and you're back at 450 hp.
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I doubt the 455 was at 450. My buddy will have a set of vortec heads for cheap here pretty soon... so if you want a small block I can get you heads, block, manifold, crank. All for free except the heads. The Vortec's have been flow benched and modified by CFO enterprises and came off a 700HP blown SBC.
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No I meant 450 being the range of a mild BBC.
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You could get an easy 400 out of the small block. Probably for around $1000 finished considering the block, crank, and heads are already here. for your 455 let me call one more person and see if he's still got the one we pulled out of a boat in the middle of the desert last year. We pulled to engine apart and it was perfectly new on the bottom, the top/outside was a little rusted and the hull was SCREWED. But I'll see if the pistons/rods are any good or if he still has them...
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FOUND YOU A 455 I SENT YOU A PM! CALL ME WHEN YOU GET THIS WANABE. Should be able to get you all this stuff by this weekend especially if you and/or flytime are coming up this Sunday to Castaic.
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FOUND YOU A 455 I SENT YOU A PM! CALL ME WHEN YOU GET THIS WANABE. Should be able to get you all this stuff by this weekend especially if you and/or flytime are coming up this Sunday to Castaic.
thats some fast work ;D
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i just live to help people who are interested in the same things I am.
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Thanks UNDONE; I appreciate it.
I spoke with UNDONE about this today; now I need some insight. I stumbled into a short block at an auto school for <$200; I was ready to jump on it and went by this afternoon to look; problem is that one piston is missing; now I have 7 good pistons/rods in mine, but I'd guess you can't just mix and match pistons because of balancing issues.
THOUGHTS?
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bump; any input on this
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No you can't just mix and match pistons.
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What he said, Have to have everything balanced.
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Start saving your pennies Tim . For what you want , it shouldnt be a rediculous amount of money . Shop that baby around . Or get yourself one like bobs and accept the boat payment :-\
-beerjet-
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Go to the mailbox and grab one of the 4 or 5 envelops from some credit card company offering 0% interest. There ya go -- instant 10K with no interest for a year. Now git er done. I'm always here to help.
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Sounds like you have two options... complete rebuild and do it as best money can afford...
or budget! find another piston (should be lots around for 455 with same shape/size must be same piston style and number preferably)
and ballance pistons and rods (very easy and cheaper than a major) I've worked in a machine shop and it can be done!
Just most people like to spend there money on doing it right (because they have the money)... tight budgets can be worked.
Just don't expect a race motor when your done and you'll have lots of fun for years to come.
If you know anyone with connections with someone at a machine shop, you'll need them to ballance stuff and check out tollerances
before you throw another motor together to find more problems.
Plus it would be alot more work to swap to a SBC or BBC for all the other parts you need to change.
Wish we still had the machine shop, like to help after seeing the look on you and your son's faces.
Hope you get her running again soon !
Rebel
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VERY nice sounding 454 w/ tunnel ram. Claims only 2 hours run time on HB spam section. $2900.00 Pics and email adresss n phone number supplied.
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I haven't worked on 'Patches' in a few months since pulling the engine (waiting for $$ for parts, etc; I never got any pics up of the engine but I still plan on it); I went out yesterday though to clear out the rain water that seaped thru the cover; I guess getting back to SCJB last week after a couple months away got me motivated so after clearing out the water I just kept going (yesterday and today; several things I can do that don't need $$).
I pulled all the interior (for first time); although the stringers are in great shape, the cross joints needed a little work; only needed to replace one but all needed to be stripped of cracking/loose glass and preped to be re-glassed.
[attachthumb=1]
Cracks are the fiberglass, not the wood.
[attachthumb=2]
[attachthumb=3]
[attachthumb=4]
[attachthumb=5]
After glassing the joints, next I'll pull the gas tank (bow); it was leaking so that needs to be addressed; I have a nephew who welds so I'll check with him first to see what he can do; after the tank I'll start building a custom interior (with the assistance of flytime).
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I was messing around and found this.....is this the same boat?
http://www.havasudoug.com/cgi-bin/ib3/ikonboard.cgi?s=78fac0ecc011ef05b0084f8a0f62850c;act=ST;f=16;t=7096
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yeah thats it....looks like it was canadia bound at one point.
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yeah thats it....looks like it was canadia bound at one point.
One thing's for sure, there's no two boats that look like this; that deal, and I think a few others, fell thru; which is why, I think, I got a good deal on it. I got it in May.
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I pulled the tank out; don't think I want to try to salvage it; in pretty bad shape; another thing added to list when I get $$.
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Hey Rod,
Whats the rock bottom price on that tank of yours?
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good to hear the motivation is still there........ Why don't you go ahead and throw a parts list up here. I have a few parts lying around. Maybe one of them will meet your requirements.