SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Projects => Topic started by: Dirty Air on June 29, 2011, 11:08:27 AM
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Well I guess now is as good of time as any to start a thread of this build, considering that i started 3 yrs ago and now I'm about 85% done.
A quick history about this project: I bought the boat in 94' from a 65yr old guy from Texas trying to re-live his childhood, his nice little gray haired wife was deathly afraid of it , hence the sale to me! I ran it for year and a half before the bottom end shit the bed! (knocked the skirts off the #4 piston) So I parked it and and decided to build a blower motor with the 6-71 i had sitting in the garage. .........Fast forward 11 years as life,divorce, multiple career changes and whole bunch of other stuff went on.
In 2008 I dug it out and decided it was time to get going.......after looking things over I thought to my self "holy crap this is going to be a lot of work... and money" Oh well, you only live once and life is to short to not enjoy it!
So enough with the Dr. Phil B.S. back story you say? Where its at today and where the hell are all the pictures?
Motor is done
pump is done
seats are done
paint and bodywork is done.....(as of last week) major pain in the ass! :banghead:
Still left to do:
interior floor (wood and flow coat)
complete re-rig of everything
wiring
gauges
oh yea, and build a new trailer (old one is so rusted out you can kick a hole in it with you toe!)
3 pics of how it looked when i got it in 94'
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3 pics of how it look sitting for 11 years
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Motor is .030 over 454 (460ci)
4340 forged steel crank 4.00 stroke w/ARP main studs
4340 H beam rods 6.385 (ARP 2000 bolts)
Mahle forged 4.280 flat top piston (8.5 :1)
heads are aluminum 345cc 115cc chamber w/ARP head studs
Cometic MLS head gaskets
valves are 2.250 Intake 1.88 Exhaust stainless
Clay smith flat tappet .270 @.050 .640 lift CL is 110
titanium retainers with super 7 locks
Block back from the machine shop
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weighing, measuring and assembling rods and pistons
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all pistons in the holes
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degreeing the cam
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Short block is done!
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Port matching the cylinder heads
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Had to weld up the intake manifold because the runners where to wide to match the heads.
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Long block is pretty much done
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Goodies back from powder coat
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Adjusting valve train geometry
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Test fitting motor plates
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Ready to go, waiting on carbs.
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On the Dyno! I don't have kids so this was for me, Like watching child birth! I was a proud father!
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I have a lot more to come, stay tuned!
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How did it do on the dyno?
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wow :thumbup: :thumbup:
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looking great man!!! let us know the dyno numbers
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let me know what time i can swing by so we can drop it in my boat.
it'll turn that panther into a kitty cat!
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How did it do on the dyno?
I didn't blow up! if that's a good sign!
Its kinda long story,
planed to pull it 6500 but never got there, had a manifold leak (since fixed) that would bleed off the boost and not allow it to pull past 5900
The #'s where 702hp at 5900rpm @6.5lbs boost and 654lbs of TQ @5100 on pump gas
due to the manifold leak I never found the end of it, had plans for AV gas and 10lbs. of boost witch should put some where close to 800ish witch is about as far as I want to push this block.
wow :thumbup: :thumbup:
Thanks gord hope to see you in BR if im done if not might ride along with someone else.
let me know what time i can swing by so we can drop it in my boat.
Bring it on! its just sitting collecting dust anyway! I hope you've got a whole lot of impeller>:D
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Lookin' good.
I'm in the middle of rebuilding my boat.
I bet that you are ready to get the boat wet.
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but id have a giant grin on my face as the pump exploded. nice lookin motor.
did you make the front plates or did you buy em? im lookin for a set like that.
I designed them and have the pattern saved at my friends water jet shop. if you are interested in a set let me know, i also have a rear plate designed as well.
Lookin' good.
I'm in the middle of rebuilding my boat.
I bet that you are ready to get the boat wet.
Thank you for the compliments. and yes, I been ready for about 2 years! :banghead:
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I Love those Liberator hulls! So much more friendly than say a Daytona! Still kick myself in the ass for passing one up a couple years ago...... :banghead:
Ray
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I Love those Liberator hulls! So much more friendly than say a Daytona! Still kick myself in the ass for passing one up a couple years ago...... :banghead:
Ray
If i'm not mistaken ray, I believe that this early liberator hull (later ones changed) is almost identical to Daytona hull with the exception to the little point in the middle between the "forks" to the point that Eliminator had taken legal action against liberator. Hence the design change on liberator's part.
I could be totally wrong on this, It's story that i was told.
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I Love those Liberator hulls! So much more friendly than say a Daytona! Still kick myself in the ass for passing one up a couple years ago...... :banghead:
Ray
If i'm not mistaken ray, I believe that this early liberator hull (later ones changed) is almost identical to Daytona hull with the exception to the little point in the middle between the "forks" to the point that Eliminator had taken legal action against liberator. Hence the design change on liberator's part.
I could be totally wrong on this, It's story that i was told.
Ray gets a bit confused sometimes (old age ?). I think he was thinking about the 21' hulls where the Liberator was deeper than the Daytonas.
Nice looking project Dirty !!
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yeah those look sweet. let me know what it would take to get that ball rolling.
just out of curiosity how does water get into and out of the motor? the water inlets look blocked off by the blower pulley plate...
The plates that i built are blocked off at the water pump holes. but can be drilled and tapped if you wish to put water in there. (pic 1) also shot of the rear plate that i have also (pic 2)
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And if you have a blower with this style of idler pulley plate as apposed to the blower mount idler (standard style), you can use these spacers to feed water in the pump holes (pic 3)
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I I'm doing thing a little different, I I'm putting water in the bottom of the block through the block drain plugs (pics 4 & 5)
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I simply drilled and tapped the holes from 1/4 pipe to 3/8 pipe and installed a AN adapter (pic 6) and of course the out water comes out of the manifold.
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I'll be VERY curious how that works out in function..........I remember being chastised for that exact same thought a couple years ago, as well as using the old skool method of tapping into the heads to control cooling on these things.......
Ray
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And if you have a blower with this style of idler pulley plate as apposed to the blower mount idler (standard style), you can use these spacers to feed water in the pump holes (pic 3)
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Alright, now yer just showin off
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I'll be VERY curious how that works out in function..........I remember being chastised for that exact same thought a couple years ago, as well as using the old skool method of tapping into the heads to control cooling on these things.......
Ray
why would you be chastized? too me that is the best good thing...brendella pickle has his water lines like this too and he made the besrt point...it's the best way to circulate the water through the block...as the way the water goes in it will circulate the sand around to keep it from piling up...i will most likely do the next motor the same way as daryl and john "brendella pickle"...i really love the thinking out of the box ordeal...keep it up guys!
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I'll be VERY curious how that works out in function..........I remember being chastised for that exact same thought a couple years ago, as well as using the old skool method of tapping into the heads to control cooling on these things.......
Ray
Ray, Basically like Nordie was touching on, The idea is something seen on someone else's boat and I thought about it if there where there any drawbacks......and all I could come up with is the possible lack of flow thru the small 1/4 pipe hole. Then I discussed it with Glenn (GT jets) and his insanely vast knowledge of hydrodynamics. He had formula that "there is no way in hell I would ever remember!" The bottom line is that they are more then adequate. Being my paranoid self I decided to drill and tap to 3/8 pipe. With that being said, when I pulled my old motor and put on the stand, rotated it upside down and almost 2 gallons of sand poured out on the ground. (block was filled to the water pump holes with sand!) The beautiful part is that when you pull you boat out of the water, The block back flushes it self to the lowest point of the block and out the pump every time!
Also, on the dyno I had to rig up that ghetto looking plumbing that you can see in the previous photos to 110volt small electric transfer pump with hose bibs to circulate the water(witch was significantly less the a jet pump) and with break-in and almost 20 pulls it worked perfectly and kept the temp at 140 to a 160 degrees.
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one thing i like about your set-up is the temp. guage in both cylinder heads! too me that would show something that was going haywire...but another thing on my motor is im going back to when i had the ford and have an electric and mechanical oil psi guage, and also a oil temp guage...probably over kill but when you piss away 5K in less then one boat season no good!!!!
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one thing i like about your set-up is the temp. guage in both cylinder heads! too me that would show something that was going haywire...but another thing on my motor is im going back to when i had the ford and have an electric and mechanical oil psi guage, and also a oil temp guage...probably over kill but when you piss away 5K in less then one boat season no good!!!!
No No No Guys! I applaud it! And I agree it's a better way to do it, myself! :thumbup:
Ray
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A little bit about the pump.
Berkeley split bowl
AQ shaft
A- Hi helix stainless impeller
That's about it, not much more to say. I don't have a lot of pics of the pump but thought somebody might like to see the billet aluminum bearing support that I made due to the fact that the stock one I had was cracked and just looked like ass!
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A little bit about the Interior, or should I say "The seats" because that is the interior, All of it!
I was looking to do something a little different then the standard look and happened to have a little extra carbon fiber laying around.
Being to lazy to build a mold, I decided to cheat! I started with a fairly conventional wood seat and "skinned" the back side of them with the carbon fiber to get the look of CF. Witch does give them some additional strength but unfourtunatly none of the weight savings :(
Picture 1 shows a metal jig that I built from 1in. square tube to bend the wood for the back of the seat. The wood witch can be seen in the background is 2 pieces of 3/8 "wiggle wood" also known as "bender board" It is plywood that is cut on the grain and perforated about every few inches and this stuff neat, you can bend or roll this stuff in about a 18 to 20 inch circle completely dry (no soaking in water) I took the 2 pieces and laminate them together (makes it 3/4 inch) with wood glue and shove them in the jig and clamp the up. let them dry overnight.
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Out of the mold the shape holds perfectly. I then cut and shaped a 3/4in. bottom glued and stapled it in place.
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I then cut and shaped the back. The covered the inside with a coat of resin and 1 layer of fiberglass for strength and water proof.
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Then I skinned the back side of the seat with the carbon fiber. 2 coats of resin, 2 coats of clear gel coat, sanding between coats to get it flat as possible. This is kind of a reverse molding process, but a much bigger pain in the ass!. Then finished with clear urethane sanded and buffed.
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Ready for upholstery.......I'm starting to think they look like funky bar stools! Maybe I have just spent to much time in bars!
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Go ahead, lets hear it, Is that black vinyl?.........yes it is! and silver too. I am a glutton for pain.
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Good looking seats.
I hope you have a bimini top to keep the sun off of them.
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Good looking seats.
I hope you have a bimini top to keep the sun off of them.
Thanks for the compliments. Bimini on a 100mph tunnel? Yea.......that ain't going to happen! Nothing a white towel cant fix ;)
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Those seats look sweet!!!!
Thanks Chris. I hope there as comfortable in the boat as they are sitting on the garage floor. (The drivers side has quite a large ass to support!) :o
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Jeezuz that's a great job! Yeah, the black is gonna be HOT after playing around on a beach for awhile, But sometimes worth it! ;)
Just jump in with wet shorts should help.
Ray
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Jeezuz that's a great job! Yeah, the black is gonna be HOT after playing around on a beach for awhile,
Thanks ray, I think once its on the water I will be so happy, I wont want to even get out of the seat! ^-^
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Ok, here's a little more.
Ran across a great deal om a set of Borla stainless up swept dragster headers, they are jet-hot coated in side and out and the mufflers are polished stainless.
I was really wanting to get away from the basset wet headers but when I seen these I was not sure if they would fit the boat. So I bolted them up to the dummy block and well...........They fit?....maybe.
They cleared the side of the hull with about a 3/8 to 1/2 inch to spare........good enough, right? I didn't thinks so either. Not to worry I got a fix for that...more pics to come shortly.
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They sure look good.
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those look sick! can you shorten them up a bit, they look a little long but it may just be the picture
chris
They are a bit long and im not a 100% pleased with it. My choices are, #1 to cut and shorting the tubes, then I would have to re-weld the tabs that hold the mufflers on, and that would F-up the ceramic coating :( #2 choice is Borla makes a shorter muffler, 2 problems with that.... COST! :banghead: (more then i paid for the and entire set up) and I'm afraid they will be to loud, not that the other ones are going to be that much better.
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No way upsweeps look badass in a boat...there is no way those things are too long...not only that but the symphony that follows them!
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Just run 'em already.....geeze this guy has too much time on his hands
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Just run 'em already.....geeze this guy has too much time on his hands
Hey buddy, You just pipe down there...... cause you just got a job and don't have all my free time.....don't be a hater! LOL!
Call me later, might be floatin' tomorrow with "yellow top John"...u interested?
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Hey buddy, You just pipe down there...... cause you just got a job and don't have all my free time.....don't be a hater! LOL!
Call me later, might be floatin' tomorrow with "yellow top John"...u interested?
Possibly, got an upholstery guy commin to get the interior for my daycruiser in the morning. Need to make a water hose for my boat and it should be ready to rock. Need to do a horsepower cove trip in that one to check it over. Still gotta figure out wassup w/ my headers, think I need to change head bolts to clear 2 1/2 inch primaries.
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i just picked up a pair of those to, putting them on my youngblood the problem i have is my motor sits about 22 inches from my transom and the actual cone muffler sits about an inch off the top of the transom.also i had to grind off the water fittings and drill and tap cause i want them wet. other than that they look and sound badass,good luck. i would post pics but its a pain in the ass with this dinosour of a computer
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you should put some heat reflective tape or something on the gunnel wee its a half inch away its prolly gonna burn the paint, mine are stainless so they are alot thinner then my bassetts, i fired mine up for ten seconds and the header was to hot to touch definetly gunna have to jet coat mine to
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just cut the boat. lol.
That's a great idea! I think I will :screwy:............
Is this what you had in mind?
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Something like this? LOL
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Ok I won't leave ya hanging, This is how it came out........
1st I made a paper template of the hole shape so i could transfer it to a metal plate to wedge in the hole as a back up and a surface to build on.
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I then hammered the plate to the shape that I was after and feathered back the outer edge of the hole so when the glass build up gets to the top it will have a good bite into the original glass.....and hopefully not crack!
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12 layers of chop strand mat to build up approx. a 1/4 of glass
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3 layers of 4oz. cloth to finish it off.
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A nice thin coat of mud to finish it off smooth 8)
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And last, A bunch of primer and a whole lot wet sanding with 600 to get it nice and flat.
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I'm afraid they will be to loud, not that the other ones are going to be that much better.
a guy who used to frequent this site ran a set of these headers...the exact ones pictures i believe. he said they were obnoxiously loud and so did anyone who went to the river with him. personally i woulda run them before cutting up the boat....you did a beautiful job on the work though. :thumbup:
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Yer pipes should clear this ok
http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/boa/2484609567.html (http://lasvegas.craigslist.org/boa/2484609567.html)
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I know the owner of that boat...its a serious project
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Yea I know. I'm just in his ass all the time to go "V"....you too focker
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Screw that boat I want the Caddy
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Screw that boat I want the Caddy
X2 :sly: :thumbup:
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personally i woulda run them before cutting up the boat....you did a beautiful job on the work though. :thumbup:
I was going to do that but since I had to do a shit load of body work and paint anyway i figured it would be easier to it before it was painted.
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You guys with skills like this make me want to kill myself. :mad:
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You guys with skills like this make me want to kill myself. :mad:
GC.....don't do it!.... Its' not like there is PHD in skills, Besides doing the seats, this is only the second time I messed with fiberglass. Its not rocket science, I just had and problem and then an Idea of how to fix it then just read everything i can find and ask a lot of questions to people that know more then I do.
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Yea I know. I'm just in his ass all the time to go "V"....you too focker
why? you want to sell yours and keep your jet...
Screw that boat I want the Caddy
trust me i want the caddy too...1960! i have met the owner of that too lol...he will sell but im not sure i like his price!
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I wanna sale all three....get just one, not sure whatever i can afford I guess
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Ok, lets get to the bodywork and paint.
I would like point out that the guy in the pictures is not me, ( I'm twice as fat!) Its is my very good friend Kenny of almost 30 yrs. And without his help, his 20+ yrs. of painting experience and insanely vast knowledge of hi-perf. engines This project would never be anywhere near where its. And for that, I thank you my brother!
We started by fixing all the stress cracks that I thought where fixable and that would stay fixed and left a few that I knew would come back. I am quite fond of the original colors and the original paint scheme so I'm re-doing it exactly the same as it was. The colors were, Black & white with a dark,medium and light grey stripe. Being that the white and gray gel's where still in very good shape and that all the body work was in the blacks we where able to mask of the gel's and re-spray the black, then un-mask the gel's and clear coat the whole thing.
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Also decided to do a "quickie" cap job. And I know that there will be some that say "It wont work"...And you might be right, But we used a new Wah-Zoo Bonder epoxy that is designed to repair damaged fiberglass front ends on buses and semi trucks. My buddy has used this in the past with amazing success. So if it works and holds up I will look like a hero, And if not, I have a contingency plan......I will just re-install a rub rail! Problem solved!
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Laying down some primer
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After 3 weeks of trying to find a paint booth and several places falling thru at the last minute I finally decided do the dirty garage thing. I bagged up the garage with a shit load of plastic sheeting and used a dry swamp cooler push air threw and used the garage door to vent.
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The black sealer is on! Starting to look like something finally!
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Black base coat going down......I'm starting to get excited! ;D ;D
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Un-wrapped and a whole crap load of clear on it! (almost a whole gallon) It's going to need it to be able to color sand and buff out the bugs and dirt that found its way in the clear. These are unfortunately the hazards of painting a fiberglass (lots of static) boat with black (shows every little speck) in a dirty ass garage.
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A few days later we blasted it with 1000 grit first to knock off the big chunks then got after it with 2000 grit to get the 1000 grit scratches out. Then let the buffer do it's magic!
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For those interested in how the cut out's for the exhaust came out.........here ya go.
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A shot of the transom and the cap line after buff and glaze.
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Paint is all finished and bling'ing in the sun! 8) 8) 8) 8) Me sooooo happy!!
Let the rigging begin!
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Holy shit that came out good!!!
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That sure came out good. You will need to wear your shades when you are in it.
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Looks great Dirty Daryl!
Did you ever get ahold of Zorac?
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Capped is definately the way to go! Looking good!
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holy shit that came out bitchen
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Came out great :thumbup:
I've had several people suggest doing a clear coat on the Hondo :-\ but you always hear about the problems but never the good.
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THAT is a great looking boat! :thumbup:
Ray
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Thanks guys! ^-^ ^-^ That means a lot from all of you. Got to spend the day on Mead today with my buddy on his cruiser and that's exactly what I needed to get me motivated to get it done!
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Looks great Dirty Daryl!
Did you ever get ahold of Zorac?
I talked with Ron and and he said Zorac and Wife where having a baby and that he would have him get with me next week, Thanks for the hook-up :thumbup:
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came out great. next time wet the floor to keep the dust down.
good in theory but not a good idea as it raises the humidity in the room and can greatly affect the quality of the paint job
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came out great. next time wet the floor to keep the dust down.
Floor was swept and was wet. but in Vegas when its a 100+ degrees out at 11pm :screwy: needless to say the concrete does not stay wet very long! dust was not the problem anyway, It was my ventilation system, I did not filter it well enough. All worked out good thou......Like I said before "Nothing the buffer could not fix!"
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That turned out sweet :thumbup: :thumbup:
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Nice! That looks damn good...
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Absolutely beautiful !!
Makes me feel like such a slacker for not having mine done by now. :-\
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Got my gauges and i'm playing around with two different panels that I cut out of #4 brushed stainless. I have to use this because the holes in the dash are pretty jacked up. I am looking for opinions.............witch on looks better? Pic 1 or Pic 2
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From what I can tell, pic #1 is one piece? I do think it does look better :thumbup: Nice ride :thumbup:
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I like pic #2
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They both look good but number 1 is better. IMO.
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Check box #1 for me.
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#1
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From what I can tell, pic #1 is one piece? I do think it does look better :thumbup: Nice ride :thumbup:
Thank you gentlemen........And I use that term loosely .....you know who you are! LOL
Both are 1 piece, but the 2nd one is just carved out in the middle a bit and I am kinda partial to that one. The only problem with it is there are some "boogers" in the paint right there on the dash and the 1st one kinda hides it.
Plus it (#1) is becoming a front runner in this unofficial poll so that is probably the one I will use.
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They both look good, but if the 1st one covers up some paint issues, I vote for that one. :thumbup:
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I like #2 better
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S 4G
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Is there any more progress on this deal.
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Is there any more progress on this deal.
getting close, I have a little more glass work to do to the inside and the start rigging. I have been busy at work and have not had time to work on it. :banghead: being unemployed gave me lots of time to work on my boat but it is hard to pay the bills.....go figure!
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I know I'm a little late but I would have to say number 1 looks better. I love the boat to. Keep it up can't wait to get home to work on mine.
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I just want to say that is a bad lookin boat :thumbup: