SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Trailers => Topic started by: SoCalPSD on February 05, 2012, 10:20:01 AM
-
So I just picked up my trailer and had a few questions
1. What wood is used for the bunks regular 2x6 or should I use a treated?
2. What kind of carpet you guys using on the bunks?
3. Whats the best way to secure the bunks to the trailer, lag screwes or carriage bolts ?
4.Anyone heard of coyote trailer mfg?
Thanks
Fat fingered from the phone-Corey
-
I used clear 2x6 and 2x4 from HD speed n marine with indoor outdoor carpet and carriage bolts.
Sent from that vibrating thing In your pocket using Tapatalk
-
I just used #2 and better spruce /pine from the lumberyard and you can buy rolls of bunk carpet on Ebay cheap, then screwed them on with lag screws. remember to use stainless steel staples to fasten the carpet on :thumbup:
-
I used treated 2x6's and S.S. carrage bolts from H.D. Speed n Marine...indoor outdoor carpet in blue too
Daniel
Mash on it
-
I also didn't use staples for the carpet I used roofing nails and so far they are way better than staples
Sent from that vibrating thing In your pocket using Tapatalk
-
outdoor 2x6 and carpet... ss carriage/staples all from home d.
-
So im gonna be painting this thing and im on a budget so its most likely gonna be rattle canned. Would it be better if I used the epoxy paint from rustoleium or just the regular ol black from them? I have already sanded the entire trailer and used the wire wheel on the rusty spots and primered it with that rust inhibitor converter stuff.
Fat fingered from the phone-Corey
-
So im gonna be painting this thing and im on a budget so its most likely gonna be rattle canned. Would it be better if I used the epoxy paint from rustoleium or just the regular ol black from them? I have already sanded the entire trailer and used the wire wheel on the rusty spots and primered it with that rust inhibitor converter stuff.
Fat fingered from the phone-Corey
If you're on a budget, roll what you can with a roller to get a decent, uniform finish, and brush or spray the rest. I used a 4" roller on mine, and it worked great, as long as you're not expecting a show trailer. Surface finish doesn't have to be perfect if you're rolling. Rust-Oleum works fine. Easy to touch up too......
-
I weenie rolled rustoleum on my first boat trailer with the boat still on it.
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
-
So im gonna be painting this thing and im on a budget so its most likely gonna be rattle canned. Would it be better if I used the epoxy paint from rustoleium or just the regular ol black from them? I have already sanded the entire trailer and used the wire wheel on the rusty spots and primered it with that rust inhibitor converter stuff.
Fat fingered from the phone-Corey
If you do use three part mixture to spray it, do not forget the hardener. You can ruin a trailer that way and make a lot of work to fix it. ;)
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
-
Got it on the trailer but ran into a problem.
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
-
So im gonna be doin some cutting and welding tonight and I noticed its not touching the rollers either, isn't it suppose to rest on the rollers and bunks?
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
-
Uh oh.. gonna have to grind all the strakes off the bottom of your boat
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
-
So im gonna be doin some cutting and welding tonight and I noticed its not touching the rollers either, isn't it suppose to rest on the rollers and bunks?
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
No. My southwind doesn't rest on the rollers. Its just there in the event the sharp point of your entry on your bow hits it when launching on a shallow graded launch ramp.
Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk
-
No. My southwind doesn't rest on the rollers. Its just there in the event the sharp point of your entry on your bow hits it when launching on a shallow graded launch ramp.
Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk
Really, mine sits right on it. It's not a roller though, just a pad.
Sent while day dreaming...
-
So im at the point where I need to cut and align the bunks. Only issue is my hull is an 18 1/2 the trailer was holding a 21 footer. How should I go about setting this thing up so the hull sits where it needs to be. As of now the bow is almost 4 feet from the front of the trailer. I don't know if that's too far back or what I need to do.
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
-
I think you're still ok with where it is sitting :thumbup: Someone else may correct me if I am wrong but I would assume a slightly smaller boat on the larger trailer is better then the opposite. Get you bunks lined up right and make sure you able to lock up the bow eye and you should be set.
-
after adjusting forward and back ........dont forget the tongue weight..........i pretty sure its 10percent of weight.....so it doesnt wear on ass of truck and the trailer axles have even distribution of weight......dont break a axle.....then there is a mess for sure......someone i thought on board it happened too
-
Having the boat setting back on the trailer will make it nice when launching on shallow ramps, you can get the trailer back farther without having to dunk the truck :thumbup:
-
True, but the less tongue weight less control of the trailer. Ride gets real bouncy
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
-
damn physics!!!
-
True, but the less tongue weight less control of the trailer. Ride gets real bouncy
Not entirely true, that will depend on the placement of the axles, not an extra foot or two on the tongue. And a one ton dosent care about tongue weight.
3800 lb CJ7 tongue weight- 25 lbs (flat tow) just sayin'
Daniel
Mash on it
-
Got some metal today. So im thinking I over engineered the bunk supports.
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
-
Got some metal today. So im thinking I over engineered the bunk supports.
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
Just my opinion, but under engineered....
The angle is not the weak link, it is the vertical flat..... ;)
Your triangulation part should go all the way to the cross-member if your looking to be bulletproof... :sly:
Also turn up the heat and/or slow down the feed... :thumbup:
GT
-
Thanks for the feed back. Reason its so big is I went over the first weld because I had the feed to slow but the other 4 came out alright. Im no welder as you can tell. I just try. Im using a little 135 lincoln set on D 3ish. More like 3 1/8 and the gas is set to about 10 psi. Sound about right for 3 1/16 plate
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
-
This is probably my best so far tonight
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
-
So I dropped the heat to c and left the feed alone and this is what I got
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
-
Figuring it out.
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
-
Figuring it out.
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
Yeah that one looks good! Nice job boss. Looks real clean. You want to rig up and repair my trailer for me...?? Hahaha
Sent while day dreaming...
-
Bring it down and we'll go to town.
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
-
What wire are you using?...Also what gas mixture?
Something bizarre going on.... :-\
GT
-
Well im done for the night. Gonna sand the edges off and hopefully finish the trailer by friday. That includes taching everything in place pulling the boat off welding everything solid and bracing what's already on the trailer.
You can see the old mount to the left it was only welded to the top of the frame these should now be long enough to weld to the top and bottom.
And the cost for materials for what you see was only $32 and they cut everything for me.
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
-
What wire are you using?...Also what gas mixture?
Something bizarre going on.... :-
GT
According to my brother who is a certed welder the metal was getting to hott and piping while welding and that's why I was getting the popping and funky chasers that would rise out of the weld? When it was turned down I could see good penetration and was getting good lines and they all got 3 good smacks with a 12 pound sledge so their solid.
What seems funny? I have no clue really about welding.
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
-
According to my brother who is a certed welder the metal was getting to hott and piping while welding and that's why I was getting the popping and funky chasers that would rise out of the weld? When it was turned down I could see good penetration and was getting good lines and they all got 3 good smacks with a 12 pound sledge so their solid.
What seems funny? I have no clue really about welding.
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
Nothing really bad, just that thee seems to be a lot of carbonizing going on and a bit smokey...Almost like what you would have with flux core wire...
FWIW the flow rat is a bit more important than pressure, the pressure simply means you have gas present.
Have you double checked the polarity? Your work should be negative (-) and the electrode positive (+) for gas and reverse for flux core...
Sounds to me like your close..
Please understand that I am trying to help you improve your skills, not criticize, it takes a lot of courage to try something new and when I was learning to weld I needed a lot of encouragement.
Great job :thumbup:
GT
-
Don't worry I didn't take it as criticism from the becoming. Just guidance. Thanks for your help.
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
-
Thanks for the feed back. Reason its so big is I went over the first weld because I had the feed to slow but the other 4 came out alright. Im no welder as you can tell. I just try. Im using a little 135 lincoln set on D 3ish. More like 3 1/8 and the gas is set to about 10 psi. Sound about right for 3 1/16 plate
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
you should not be using a 110v machine for this. Multiple passes
Don't do squat. Your welds a weak and cold. Welds like that should not be put on the road.
-
you should not be using a 110v machine for this. Multiple passes
Don't do squat. Your welds a weak and cold. Welds like that should not be put on the road.
Ok so ill make another plate. What's your opinion on the other plates pictured?
Edit: on the first plate pictured the weld on the gusset to the right was the only weld I ran over again and the plates are welded on all sides where they attach. Thanks for the info and guidance?
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
-
Ok so ill make another plate. What's your opinion on the other plates pictured?
Edit: on the first plate pictured the weld on the gusset to the right was the only weld I ran over again and the plates are welded on all sides where they attach. Thanks for the info and guidance?
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
Yes you are getting better. Toes still look a little cold though. You would really like a 220 machine. Here is a pic of what I am talking about.
(https://forum.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tjsperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fcross_member02.jpg&hash=fa670b99cb969f4af5cb5c8df7cdca2a22f0f53f)
-
Now when you say cold what exactly does that mean?
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
-
First picture on post #25. Look at the edge(toes) of the welds. They are not blending the base material in with your bead and your bead is too high. Also clean the mill scale off of the steel. Sand with a grinding wheel with 50 grit so the metal is clean and shiny. Mill scale is oxides during the hot rolling process and you have to break through that to get to the steel. This causes havoc with gas mig and really bad on TIG. Stick it would be ok to leave it there.
T.J.
-
Did some practicing, how do I solve the cold toe issue?
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
-
And what the hell causes those chasers that bubble out
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
-
im no pro welder by any means and i get dangerous with my 220v argon mig... but doesnt it look like the bead is just sitting on top of the metal and not IN the metal like in TJ's pic?
like this:
(https://forum.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.profabricationtechniques.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2011%2F01%2Fstack_o_dimes_mig_weld.jpg&hash=ca3c687667b1eae49238b79ff9c22605e4c0d2c6)
the bead itself takes on a concave shape where as the previous weld pix are all convex and theres just a big bead sitting on top of the work?
convex:
(https://forum.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.socaljetboats.com%2Ftrailers%2Ftrailer-repair%2F%3Faction%3Ddlattach%3Battach%3D51960%3Bimage&hash=61c0c8d26e32369a48d9fd0178d615e2ac0ba5f9)
To be honest I couldn't tell ya, hopefully tj would chime in but I think it has to do with the technique. I was taught a few techniques and the one circled is one I use the most but im sure there's more to it
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
-
Im think your problem is too heavey a material for your 110v welder .it doesnt seem like your getting penetration just piling the weld up on the surface.My 110v welder does the same thing on 1/4 inch steel so I stick weld the bis stuff with 7018 low hydrogen and that does the trick. I don't think it will matter what tecnique you try your welder is not designed for the job especially if you dont have it plugged into a 20 amp dedicated plug
-
The welder im using is a 135 Lincoln and it welds 1/4 in. So I don't think its the welder more so operator error on my part with the angle of the tip. In the pic posted a few posts back when I was practicing that was a 1/4in scrap welded to one of the old 3/16 bunk supports and it burned good came out clean and had the concave weld to it.
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
-
is it a weldpac 135 because thats what mine is and it will only weld 1/4 inch with flux core wire
-
is it a weldpac 135 because thats what mine is and it will only weld 1/4 inch with flux core wire
Donno all I can tell ya off the top of my head is its a 135 something. Its my works welder that we use from time to time but its stored at my house.......
Only reason I started this venture is because my brothers welding teacher told us it would weld 3/16 no problem.
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
-
yeah Ive heard that before .all I can tell you is from my experience with the same welder and having made the same kinds of welds I dont't think it's operator error I think the welder is too small or your voltage is too low ie. using it on a 15 amp plug
-
Well shit. I just downloaded the manual. For 3/16 use flux core and settings D3.
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
-
even with fluxcore it will still be hard to get a good weld .make sure you have a 20 amp plug to plug into with nothing else on that circuit and clean clean clean before you start. the wire size info and setting is in the inside of the door you lift up to put the wire in
-
I just got off the phone with a friend and im gonna be picking up a 220v Lincoln. Hopefully that thing will be able to do what I want it to.
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
-
I just got off the phone with a friend and im gonna be picking up a 220v Lincoln. Hopefully that thing will be able to do what I want it to.
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey
That was my original answer to you. Use a 220v machine and you will be much happier. Sure you can weld 1/4" steel with a 110v machine but that would be a butt weld and "V'd" out like crazy. You are doing a fillet weld where no "V-ing" out can be accomplished. I use a kind of a cursive "e" weave when I MIG. Sometime I do not weave, I just kind of whip and overlap, depending on the type of joint I am working on.
Good luck, hope this helps.
-
Well im happy, that machine worked out great
Fat fingered from the phone- Corey