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SoCalPSD

  • Karma: +4/-0
Trailer repair
« on: February 05, 2012, 10:20:01 AM »
So I just picked up my trailer and had a few questions

1. What wood is used for the bunks regular 2x6 or should I use a treated?
2. What kind of carpet you guys using on the bunks?

3. Whats the best way to secure the bunks to the trailer, lag screwes or carriage bolts ?

4.Anyone heard of coyote trailer mfg?

Thanks



Fat fingered from the phone-Corey
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SuperJet

  • Karma: +2/-0
Trailer repair
« Reply #1 on: February 05, 2012, 12:16:25 PM »
 I used clear 2x6 and 2x4 from HD speed n marine with indoor outdoor carpet and carriage bolts.


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  • Boat #1: 1978 Sanger SuperJet
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Mine was stiff when working it back and forth on the trailer.
Once I got it on the water and under power, it was amazing!

farmergord

  • Karma: +6/-0
Re: Trailer repair
« Reply #2 on: February 05, 2012, 12:44:40 PM »
I just used #2 and better spruce /pine from the lumberyard and you can buy rolls of bunk carpet on Ebay cheap, then screwed them on with lag screws. remember to use stainless steel staples to fasten the carpet on  :thumbup:
  • Boat #1: 1976 Pioneer 19foot
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Im not a nag Im a motivational speaker

mash on it

  • Karma: +29/-0
Re: Trailer repair
« Reply #3 on: February 05, 2012, 12:58:30 PM »
I used treated 2x6's and S.S. carrage bolts from H.D. Speed n Marine...indoor outdoor carpet in blue too

Daniel
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SuperJet

  • Karma: +2/-0
Trailer repair
« Reply #4 on: February 05, 2012, 01:15:49 PM »
I also didn't use staples for the carpet I used roofing nails and so far they are way better than staples


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  • Boat #1: 1978 Sanger SuperJet
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Mine was stiff when working it back and forth on the trailer.
Once I got it on the water and under power, it was amazing!

Your Mom

  • Karma: +20/-0
Re: Trailer repair
« Reply #5 on: February 06, 2012, 07:09:08 AM »
outdoor 2x6 and carpet... ss carriage/staples all from home d.

SoCalPSD

  • Karma: +4/-0
Re: Trailer repair
« Reply #6 on: February 08, 2012, 12:49:40 PM »
So im gonna be painting this thing and im on a budget so its most likely gonna be rattle canned. Would it be better if I used the epoxy paint from rustoleium or just the regular ol black from them? I have already sanded the entire trailer and used the wire wheel on the rusty spots and primered it with that rust inhibitor converter stuff.

Fat fingered from the phone-Corey
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MPKardell

  • Karma: +1/-0
Re: Trailer repair
« Reply #7 on: February 08, 2012, 03:47:22 PM »
So im gonna be painting this thing and im on a budget so its most likely gonna be rattle canned. Would it be better if I used the epoxy paint from rustoleium or just the regular ol black from them? I have already sanded the entire trailer and used the wire wheel on the rusty spots and primered it with that rust inhibitor converter stuff.

Fat fingered from the phone-Corey

If you're on a budget, roll what you can with a roller to get a decent, uniform finish, and brush or spray the rest.  I used a 4" roller on mine, and it worked great, as long as you're not expecting a show trailer.  Surface finish doesn't have to be perfect if you're rolling.  Rust-Oleum works fine.  Easy to touch up too......
  • Boat #1: 1991 Dana 22' day cruiser
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BIG JOHNSON

  • Karma: +1/-0
Re: Trailer repair
« Reply #8 on: February 08, 2012, 06:28:24 PM »
I weenie rolled rustoleum on my first boat trailer with the boat still on it.

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BIG JOHNSON

  • Karma: +1/-0
Re: Re: Trailer repair
« Reply #9 on: February 13, 2012, 10:22:07 PM »
So im gonna be painting this thing and im on a budget so its most likely gonna be rattle canned. Would it be better if I used the epoxy paint from rustoleium or just the regular ol black from them? I have already sanded the entire trailer and used the wire wheel on the rusty spots and primered it with that rust inhibitor converter stuff.

Fat fingered from the phone-Corey

If you do use three part mixture to spray it, do not forget the hardener. You can ruin a trailer that way and make a lot of work to fix it. ;)

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  • Boat #1: 1994 Ultra LX 21"
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SoCalPSD

  • Karma: +4/-0
Re: Trailer repair
« Reply #10 on: February 25, 2012, 02:19:48 PM »
Got it on the trailer but ran into a problem.

Fat fingered from the phone-  Corey
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In my best "grandad" voice with a cigarette hanging out of my mouth....  "if a day goes by and you learn nothing, I hope like hell you got a lot of sleep".... :thumbup:

SoCalPSD

  • Karma: +4/-0
Re: Trailer repair
« Reply #11 on: February 25, 2012, 03:49:01 PM »
So im gonna be doin some cutting and welding tonight and I noticed its not touching the rollers either, isn't it suppose to rest on the rollers and bunks?

Fat fingered from the phone-  Corey
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In my best "grandad" voice with a cigarette hanging out of my mouth....  "if a day goes by and you learn nothing, I hope like hell you got a lot of sleep".... :thumbup:

BIG JOHNSON

  • Karma: +1/-0
Re: Trailer repair
« Reply #12 on: February 25, 2012, 06:45:09 PM »
Uh oh.. gonna have to grind all the strakes off the bottom of your boat

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Brad @ SCJB

  • Karma: +255/-0
Re: Re: Trailer repair
« Reply #13 on: February 26, 2012, 03:39:17 AM »
So im gonna be doin some cutting and welding tonight and I noticed its not touching the rollers either, isn't it suppose to rest on the rollers and bunks?

Fat fingered from the phone-  Corey

No. My southwind doesn't rest on the rollers. Its just there in the event the sharp point of your entry on your bow hits it when launching on a shallow graded launch ramp.

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  • Boat #1: 1978 Liberty
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More2LifeThanMPG

  • Karma: +13/-0
Trailer repair
« Reply #14 on: February 26, 2012, 09:16:56 AM »
No. My southwind doesn't rest on the rollers. Its just there in the event the sharp point of your entry on your bow hits it when launching on a shallow graded launch ramp.

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Really, mine sits right on it. It's not a roller though, just a pad.


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  • Boat #1: 1989 Howard 21' River Cruiser
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SoCalPSD

  • Karma: +4/-0
Re: Trailer repair
« Reply #15 on: March 01, 2012, 05:58:02 PM »
So im at the point where I need to cut and align the bunks.   Only issue is my hull is an 18 1/2 the trailer was holding a 21 footer.  How should I go about setting this thing up so the hull sits where it needs to be. As of now the bow is almost 4 feet from the front of the trailer.  I don't know if that's too far back or what I need to do.                   

Fat fingered from the phone-  Corey
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74hondo

  • Karma: +8/-0
Re: Trailer repair
« Reply #16 on: March 04, 2012, 09:23:58 AM »
I think you're still ok with where it is sitting  :thumbup: Someone else may correct me if I am wrong but I would assume a slightly smaller boat on the larger trailer is better then the opposite. Get you bunks lined up right and make sure you able to lock up the bow eye and you should be set.
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h2oicon

  • Karma: +3/-0
Re: Trailer repair
« Reply #17 on: March 04, 2012, 09:36:54 AM »
after adjusting forward and back ........dont forget the tongue weight..........i pretty sure its 10percent of weight.....so it doesnt wear on ass of truck and the trailer axles have even distribution of weight......dont break a axle.....then there is a mess for sure......someone i thought on board it happened too
  • Boat #1: 1984 eliminator 30ft off shore
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crewchief22

  • Karma: +66/-0
Re: Trailer repair
« Reply #18 on: March 04, 2012, 02:07:13 PM »
Having the boat setting back on the trailer will make it nice when launching on shallow ramps, you can get the trailer back farther without having to dunk the truck  :thumbup:
  • Boat #1: '77 Hondo Pantera GT Jet
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"Racing is life!  Anything that happens before or after, is just waiting"    Steve McQueen

The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?

BIG JOHNSON

  • Karma: +1/-0
Re: Trailer repair
« Reply #19 on: March 04, 2012, 06:39:08 PM »
True, but the less tongue weight less control of the trailer. Ride gets real bouncy

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74hondo

  • Karma: +8/-0
Re: Trailer repair
« Reply #20 on: March 04, 2012, 08:17:32 PM »
damn physics!!!
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mash on it

  • Karma: +29/-0
Re: Trailer repair
« Reply #21 on: March 05, 2012, 07:49:33 AM »
True, but the less tongue weight less control of the trailer. Ride gets real bouncy

Not entirely true, that will depend on the placement of the axles, not an extra foot or two on the tongue. And a one ton dosent care about tongue weight.

3800 lb CJ7 tongue weight- 25 lbs (flat tow) just sayin'

Daniel
Mash on it
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SoCalPSD

  • Karma: +4/-0
Re: Trailer repair
« Reply #22 on: March 20, 2012, 05:45:17 PM »
Got some metal today. So im thinking I over engineered the bunk supports.

Fat fingered from the phone-  Corey
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In my best "grandad" voice with a cigarette hanging out of my mouth....  "if a day goes by and you learn nothing, I hope like hell you got a lot of sleep".... :thumbup:

GT Jets

  • Karma: +192/-0
Re: Trailer repair
« Reply #23 on: March 20, 2012, 06:29:15 PM »
Got some metal today. So im thinking I over engineered the bunk supports.

Fat fingered from the phone-  Corey


Just my opinion, but under engineered....

The angle is not the weak link, it is the vertical flat..... ;)

Your triangulation part should go all the way to the cross-member if your looking to be bulletproof...  :sly:

Also turn up the heat and/or slow down the feed... :thumbup:

GT
  • Boat #1: 1992 Carrera 20.5 Elite (I/O bitches)
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

SoCalPSD

  • Karma: +4/-0
Re: Trailer repair
« Reply #24 on: March 20, 2012, 07:26:49 PM »
Thanks for the feed back. Reason its so big is I went over the first weld because I had the feed to slow but the other 4 came out alright. Im no welder as you can tell. I just try. Im using a little 135 lincoln set on D 3ish. More like 3 1/8 and the gas is set to about 10 psi. Sound about right for 3 1/16 plate

Fat fingered from the phone-  Corey
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